Cycling in Bulgaria – practical bike touring guide

Covered by some of the Balkan’s highest and wildest mountains, Bulgaria is a fascinating destination for bicycle touring. Located on the peripheries of Europe, it is often overlooked, so if you are looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination, you will absolutely fall in love with Bulgaria. My practical guide will help you prepare for a bicycle tour in the land of roses, sunflowers and wine.

How to get there?

Many bicycle travellers will transit Bulgaria on their way from Europe to Asia. For me, cycling in Bulgaria was a part of a Balkan trip, starting in Tirana and finishing in Burgas, from where I took a flight home to Gdansk. 

You can cheaply fly to Bulgaria from many European cities, for example with Wizzair or Ryanair (to Burgas from Vienna, Dortmund, Budapest, Eindhoven, Warsaw, Cracow, or London and to Sofia among others from Brussels, Larnaca, Malta, Copenhagen, Paris, Hamburg, Rome, Frankfurt, Lisbon, Madrid, Bratislava, Stockholm, Geneva and London). Wizzair flies from Dubai to Sofia, which can be a way to get to Bulgaria from outside Europe. 

Check out my tips on travelling by plane with your bike here.

Visa

Although Bulgaria is an EU member, it is a part of the Schengen Area. However, Bulgaria has a visa-free regime for travellers with multiple Schengen visas.

Bike rental in Bulgaria

If you don’t want to bring your own bike, you can rent a bike in Bulgaria for quite an affordable price. Cycling Bulgaria offers rental bikes for 10 euros/day (road bikes, touring bikes or MTB bikes).

Is Bulgaria safe for solo female travellers?

I would describe Bulgaria as a safe destination for solo female travellers. However, I felt less at ease than, for example, in Greece or Albania. I didn’t have any dangerous situations but keep in mind that the macho culture is doing quite well in Bulgaria. This means you can hear some comments regarding your looks or whistling. 

Terrain

Bulgaria is a very mountainous country, and you need to be in pretty good shape to enjoy cycling there, especially in the central and western parts of the country. The highest mountains – Rila and Pirin offer splendid alpine views. The Balkan Mountains (Stara Planina) cross the entire country from west to east. The Rhodopes are one of the wildest mountain areas in Europe, with villages connected sometimes only with dirt roads.

Bike lanes, traffic and safety on the roads

Bigger cities in Bulgaria, like Plovdiv or Burgas, have a decent network of cycle lanes. The situation for cyclists is not as good in Sofia. The cycling lanes in the capital are chaotic and unconnected, so you often end up on the roads with cars.

Bulgarian drivers might not be the top considerate and cyclist-friendly in the EU. Luckily, besides the main roads, the traffic is not that big, and I felt pretty safe. There might be one or two situations where a truck driver overtook me without maintaining a safe distance. If you are uncomfortable with cycling in traffic, you should stick to small country roads. 

Taking a bicycle on a train in Bulgaria

In Bulgaria, you can take your bike on all trains, even though most of them are not really equipped with special coaches to transport bicycles. This means you will likely have to carry your bike up some steep and narrow steps and just place it in the last coach. 

Taking your bike on a train in Bulgaria is very cheap: the bicycle transportation fee is 2 LEV (ca. 1 euro), no matter the distance. You either book the ticket online or at the train station. At small stations, the counter might be closed – in this case, you can simply buy the ticket from the conductor. I did it when taking the train from Kalofer, there was no additional fee. 

The railway network is well-developed, with more than 4000 kilometres, but many trains are rather old and slow.

You can find the train schedules and more information on taking your bike on a train on the official website of Bulgarian Railways.

Weather

Bulgaria’s climate is temperate, and the best time for a bicycle tour in this country is between April and October. If you plan to spend more time in the mountains, you should visit in the summer when it’s warm and dry.

Food and water

When cycling in the mountains, you will see plenty of small water fountains where you can refill your water supply. The water is fresh, straight from a mountain source, so you can drink it without any worry about your stomach. 

Even in the countryside, there are plenty of shops, so food supply shouldn’t be a problem unless you decide to head off the beaten track. 

Is Bulgaria a good country for vegetarians?

Even though Bulgarian cuisine is traditionally meat-based, I didn’t have any problem feeding myself as a vegetarian. There are plenty of Bulgarian vegetarian dishes, and the salads with fresh vegetables are absolutely delicious. Shopska salad during the season is always a safe option. If you, like me, love cheese, you should definitely try Sirene po shopski – cheese baked with vegetables. You can also get a plate of grilled vegetables or bean soup.

Wild camping

Wild camping in Bulgaria is theoretically not legal but widely accepted by the authorities and society, as long as you stay away from the coast and national reserves.

As a solo travelling woman, I had some moments when I didn’t feel confident enough to wild camp. In Rhodopes, I asked permission to pitch my tent next to a mountain restaurant, and it was absolutely no problem.

Paid accommodation

In my experience, it was sometimes hard to find an established campsite when I didn’t want to wild camp. The prices usually vary from 5 to 10 euros per person but can be much higher on the coast during the high season. 

I was using booking.com and hostelworld.com to find accommodation 

The prices for a dorm bed in hostels in Sofia, Plovdiv or Bansko are between 10-15 euros. For a private room, you will have to pay at least 20 euros (the cheapest option, depending on the location). 

Warm Showers in Bulgaria

Cycling is popular in Bulgaria, and the Warm Showers community is phenomenal. I used Warm Showers twice during my bicycle tour in Bulgaria and the hospitality I experienced from my hosts – Anton and Evgeni – was extraordinary. 

Money

The currency in Bulgaria is the Bulgarian Lev (BGN). 1 BGN = 0,51 EUR.

During my trip, I was using my Revolut Card. The exchange rate was far more favourable than offered by exchange offices. These banks won’t charge you an additional fee for withdrawal with Revolut Card: DSK Bank, Central Cooperative Bank, B36 United Bulgarian Bank, Fibank, SG Express Bank, Piraeus Bank, Bulgaria Eurobank, Postbank, ProCredit Bank, Unicredit.

Although many shops and restaurants accept card payments, you should definitely have enough cash with you, especially in the countryside, although ATMs are fairly easy to find. 

Internet and local sim card

Since Bulgaria is an EU member, you can use a SIM card from any other EU country. If you don’t have one, you can get a Bulgarian SIM card with mobile data for a very affordable price. For example, a Telenor SIM card with 4 GB of data costs 8 BGN. Vivacom SIM card with 6 GB valid for 30 days also costs 8 BGN. If you need more data, A1 Bulgaria offers a starter with 15 GB valid for 30 days for 15 BGN.

Best cycling routes in Bulgaria

With its stunning, unspoiled mountains, Bulgaria offers countless trails that every gravel cyclist or mountain biker will fall in love with. For a road bike, the options are a bit more limited.

Iron Courtain Eurovelo route (Eurovelo 13)

Following the Bulgarian part of the longest Eurovelo route will guarantee to see some of the country’s most charming corners: the mountains of Rila, Pirin and Rhodopes, the Thracian Lowlands and the Black Sea Coast. 

You can download the gpx-track of the Iron Curtain Eurovelo route here.

This part of the Eurovelo route is still under construction, so following the trail blindly might not be the best idea. Thorough research of each stage is recommended to avoid surprises like this one between Goleshovo and Paril (unless you are a fan of hike-a-biking;) ).

Black Sea Eurovelo route (Eurovelo 6)

The Eurovelo 6 is a good choice if you wish for a flatter and easier route through Bulgaria. Following the Danube (Dunav in Bulgarian), you will start at the north-western point of the country and reach the Black Sea. Again, this route is under construction as well. The signage is poor/non-existent. If you are looking for more information and the gpx file of Eurovelo 6, Lauren from The Planet Edit has written a great article about it. 

You can also find more information on the website of Danuv Ultra. This route overlaps with Eurovelo 6. The classic variant of Danuv Ultra follows paved roads and is suitable for a road bike. The Adventure Route has more dirt tracks and requires more skills and experience.

Iskar River Cycling Route

The 292-kilometres-long route will take you from the Bulgarian capital to the Romanian border through the stunning gorge of the Iskar River. Imposing rock formations, a fresh breeze from the river and a windy road – what more can a cyclist wish for? This is a good route for a road bike. Be prepared for quite some traffic.

You can find the map of the Iskar River route here.

Vitosha Mountains

Are you more into MTB and off-road? Vitosha is definitely a place for you. Right around the corner from Sofia, you will find unspoiled nature and lots of adventurous trails. The route of the Vitosha 100 MTB race guarantees a lot of fun and great views.

Botev Peak – the highest road in the Balkan Mountains

If you are one of those higher, faster, further people, you definitely don’t want to miss cycling up the road to Botev Peak. It is one of the highest roads in Bulgaria and the highest road in the Balkan Mountains. The gravel road will take you up to 2.376m above sea level. 

The views on the way are spectacular. Take a break to admire the Kademliya Waterfall. If the long climb has made you hungry, you can eat something in the Mandrata mountain hut. They also offer accommodation if you want to spend a night in the mountains.

Trans Rhodopi Trail

Trans Rhodopi trail is a perfect option for true adventure lovers. 70 % of the 500 kilometres long route is traffic free. You will cycle on small country roads, dirt roads, and single tracks through one of Europe’s most unspoiled mountain ranges. The route starts in the charming village of Trigrad and ends in Madharovo.

Trans Rhodopi is something for more experienced cycle tourists. The infrastructure is quite sparse, and the terrain can be demanding. You can find more information about Trans Rhodopi here. 

Highlights

I spent two weeks cycling in Bulgaria (from the Greek border in Kulata to the Black Sea coast in Burgas), and here are some of my favourite places on the way:

Plovdiv

I fell madly in love with the second largest city in Bulgaria that turns out to have it all. Charming cobbled streets and colourful houses in the old town, sunset views from Youth Hill, vibrant cafes and street art in Kabana creative district, green parks, brutalist architecture from the cold war times, one of the best preserved ancient theatres – no matter what you are looking for, you will find it in Plovdiv!

Bansko and Pirin National Park

When I read that Bansko is Bulgaria’s most popular mountain resort and digital nomads’ hub, I feared it would be all fake and touristy. Luckily, I was wrong! Admittedly, the part of town close to the ski lift looks like a soulless alpine resort, with big, boring hotels and plenty of casinos. Yet the old centre is full of charming stone houses with beautifully painted walls and the evenings there, even in the middle of the summer, are quiet and relaxing.

In Bansko, I stayed at Le Retro Hostel. It was one of my favourite hostels ever, with a cosy wooden interior, three cute dogs, a friendly owner and the best English breakfast. All that for just 12 euros/night.

Pirin National Park is an absolute pearl if you’d like to add some variation to your trip and change the bike for hiking shoes for once. You can leave your bike in Bansko and take a bus or cable car to Banderishka Polyana. Another option is to cycle to Banderitsa Camping (1818 m) as I did. On the 14 km from Bansko to Banderitsa, you will climb over 900 metres, but the gradient is mild. The road goes through a beautiful green forest, so it was worth the effort.

Bear Sanctuary Belitsa

If you love wild animals, you should visit a special place in the Rila mountains – the Bear Sanctuary in Belitsa. This is a rehabilitation centre for bears that have been mistreated. You can read more about the cruel tradition of dancing bears here.

Burgas

Nothing beats taking a refreshing dip in the sea after hundreds of kilometres on a bike. Burgas, with its lovely Black Sea beaches and therapeutic salt lakes, is a perfect place to recover after cycling. If you want to meet inspiring people and contribute to the local society, you should stay in Hug Center Burgas. This active mobility hub welcomes cyclists and volunteers from all over the world. Almost everything in the hostel is built from reused and recycled materials (for example, the bathroom in my room was a repurposed elevator cab. 

Rhodope mountains

The Rhodope mountains, with traditional villages tucked in the remote valleys, have a unique charm. I was fascinated to learn more about the Pomaks – the Muslim minority living in this part of Bulgaria. Rhodopes are known for their ancient Thracian heritage and unusual natural phenomena such as Stone Mushrooms, Devil’s Cave and The Horseshoe Bend of Kardzhali Dam.

You can find the most interesting places, viewpoints, trails and shelters in Western Rhodopes on this map:

Check out also the map with my personal highlights in Bulgaria: