Cycling in Albania – practical bike touring guide

Cycling in Albania will be a blast for every adventure seeker. After nearly half a century of the communist regime and total isolation followed by social unrest in the 90s, this little Balkan country is still undiscovered and little known to a broader audience. Hop on your bike and experience the untouched mountains, wild rivers, spectacular canyons, fascinating culture and outstanding hospitality of Albanians. 

I have spent three weeks cycling in the country of Skanderberg. Writing this article, I did my best to give you all the information you need before bike touring in Albania.

How to get there?

Plane

It is easy and affordable to travel to Albania by plane from Europe.

Wizzair has direct connections to Tirana from many European cities, like Berlin, Paris, Eindhoven, Oslo, Warsaw, Stockholm, London, Madrid, Budapest, Brussels, Vienna, and almost all major Italian cities.

Taking your bicycle on a plane with Wizzair costs 40 euros. Read more about travelling by plane with a bike in this article.

If you cannot find a connection to Tirana, check out also flights to Skopje (Macedonia), Podgorica (Montenegro) or Corfu (Greece).

Ferry

You can also take a ferry to Albania from Italy. I travelled from Bari to Durres with Adria Ferries and paid 60 euros for my ticket (including the bike). The ferry leaves at 22:00, and the ride lasts 10 hours. If you don’t want to sleep in the deck restaurant as I did, you will have to spend another 100 euros for the cabin.

The alternative route is from Ancona to Bari, for 80 euros. The ferry leaves at 17:00, and the trip is really long – 19 hours.

Covid travel restrictions in Albania

Per 17.05.2022, you can enter Albania if you have:

• proof of COVID-19 vaccination
• negative PCR COVID-19 test performed up to 72 hours ahead of arrival
• rapid Antigen (COVID-19) test performed no more than 48 hours ahead of arrival
• proof that you have recovered from COVID-19 within the last six months

You can check the current Covid restrictions in Albania on this website.

Bike rental in Albania

Cycle Albania offers Giant hybrid bikes with a pre-installed pannier rack for 15 euros per day.

Bike shops in Albania

If you are looking for spare parts or a box to pack your bicycle for the flight, you will find a lot of small bike shops along Rruga Qemal Stafa street in Tirana.

Is Albania safe for solo female travellers?

Being still an unknown and mysterious destination for most people, Albania has to still fight its reputation as a dangerous country with organised crime and human trafficking. You might hear a few „are you crazy” when you reveal you’re going alone there.

I can say that I felt even safer than in some countries in Western Europe. I have wild camped there alone without any problems and didn’t feel threatened.

Of course, I would still take the usual precautions, like not disclosing to anyone that I am going to wild camp and remain hidden. I also kept a close eye on my belongings.

In small towns, in the public spaces, you will notice mostly men, which might feel intimidating at first. As a solo travelling woman, I would get some attention, but I was treated with respect and kindness. The locals are very eager to help, so whenever I looked a bit „lost”, someone would approach me and ask if I needed something.

I had one situation when a young guy on a mountain bike started cycling next to me for a bit longer than I actually wanted. I think he tried to give me some advice about my bike (he didn’t speak English, so I couldn’t quite understand). After about 20 minutes, I started getting annoyed that he was still there, so I made clear I was ok and would be fine on my own, and he respectfully left then.

Terrain

More than 70 % of the territory of Albania consists of mountains. Make sure to get some training before you come here. To reduce the elevation metres, you can take the coastal route and follow Eurovelo 8. But it is much less scenic and exciting than the mountains.

Bike lanes, traffic and safety on the roads

Regarding safety on the roads, Albania is full of contradictions. You might have heard that Albanians drive like crazy and that it’s super dangerous to cycle there. It is only partially true. On the main roads, you might feel unsafe. There is often no roadside, and drivers will overtake you without maintaining a proper distance. However, the truck drivers usually honk to warn you, so you can slow down or even stop.

But most of the roads in the country are quiet and perfect for cycling. Have limited trust in Google Maps, Komoot, Maps.me, Mapy.cz or any other navigation. They might often lead you through some pretty potholed and rocky dirt roads. 

Cycling lanes are surprisingly good in big cities like Tirana or Shkoder. Unfortunately, they are often treated as a space for parking.

Mountain biking in Albania

The wild and undiscovered Albanian mountains are the perfect playground for every mountain biker. If you are looking for the best MTB adventure, hit up Ride Albania – they organise both guided and self-guided tours through the best trails in the country.

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A post shared by Joanna Chmara (@chmaraa)

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A post shared by Joanna Chmara (@chmaraa)

Public transportation

Public transportation in Albania is limited. If you want to skip some cycling and take your bike on a train or a bus, it will be a challenge.

The railway network in the whole country is only 424 km long. Trains are very infrequent, so don’t count on them. 

There are many buses between the major cities, but the public transportation in the countryside is pretty much inexisting. 

If you cannot keep on cycling, you will most likely need a taxi.

Weather

Albania’s Mediterranean climate makes it a perfect destination for cycling holidays. Albanian summers are sunny and dry, so expect some lovely cycling tan (remember to bring good sunscreen!). In July and August, the heat might make biking unbearable. The best time to visit Albania is from April to June and September to October. Bear in mind that in April and in October you can expect some heavy rainfalls. Up in the mountains, there might still be snow in April.

Wild camping

Wild camping in Albania is legal and uncomplicated.

In the mountains, it’s easy to find a green and scenic spot for your tent. It can happen that some shepherds will pass by in the evening. Before my trip, I often read online that there was a lot of litter everywhere, but I was pleasantly surprised. In my opinion, it wasn’t so bad, at least compared to North Macedonia or Bosnia and Herzegovina.

If you need a warm shower after a day of cycling or don’t feel confident enough to wild camp, you can also stay at one of many small campsites. Most of them are very basic, so don’t expect full-scale campsites with a restaurant and a pool like on the Croatian or Italian coast. They usually have a toilet, shower, electricity and wi-fi. On most of them, I paid about 5 euros per night.

Accommodation

Can you cycle in Albania without camping?

If you don’t want to carry your camping gear while travelling to Albania, I have good news. It is absolutely possible to cycle around Albania with no camping gear! The network of guesthouses, hotels and hostels is well-developed, and you will easily find accommodation. Even if you travel on a budget, you will be fine. Accommodation prices are low: a dorm bed in a hostel is 5 to 10 euros. You can also easily find a private room for about 10-20 euros.

I have met a Dutch couple travelling light, and they said they didn’t have any problems finding accommodation.

Money

The currency in Albania is Albanian Lek (LEK). 100 LEK = 0,83 EUR. Many hostels, hotels, restaurants and shops accept euros as well.

Card payments are not very popular, especially in the countryside, so make sure to carry enough cash.

There are a lot of ATMs, but most of them charge a high fee for withdrawal (from 300 to even 800 LEK). Don’t make the same mistake as I did, not having enough cash when cycling through the mountains from Permet to Korca and having to withdraw money from the only ATM in 140 km. Unfortunately, it was Raiffaisen Bank which charged me 800 LEK.

The only ATMs that don’t charge an extra fee are Credins Bank.

It’s good to know that sometimes Albanians say 1000 when they mean 100 leke. This is the remainder of the „old” lek, with an additional 0. So if the amount you hear seems too high, ask the seller to write the price down for you to double-check.

Internet and local sim card

The provider I used is called One. For 1500 leke (13 euro), I got 20 GB (15 GB internet, 5 GB for social media) for 21 days (or at least I thought it was for 21 days, but in fact, it worked for 25 days, I still don’t know why).   

Food

Many small shops in the countryside were poorly stocked and offered mostly sweets, pasta, cheese and some fruits and veggies. After my trip to Albania, I can’t look at 7-days croissants. If you plan to tour a lot „in the wild”, buy enough food in bigger towns. For a better selection, go to Conad or Spar. The prices are very reasonable.

I loved to stop by some small bakeries for lunch and get byrek – a traditional pastry with cheese, spinach or meat. It usually costs about 40-50 leke, and the greasy pastry will keep you full for a while.

Is Albania vegetarian-friendly?

The Albanian cuisine is delicious. Although many local dishes are meat-based, you will find plenty of vegetarian options with fresh, organic vegetables. The prices in restaurants are pretty low, for 600-700 leke you can get a good meal.

Stray dogs

I read many warnings about aggressive wild or shepherd dogs. Luckily, I didn’t have any problems with them. Only once in a small town, two dogs were barking at me ferociously. A motorcyclist passing by honked at them and told me to ride away. Bringing an air horn might be a good idea to protect yourself from the dogs.

In all the other cases, my usual method worked quite well. When I see a dog in the mountains, I slow down, sometimes getting off my back and talking to the dog while slowly moving forward. If you are afraid of a dog attack, consider taking pepper spray or citronella spray.

Best cycling routes in Albania

Everywhere in Albania, you will have gorgeous views and beautiful nature around. Below are some of my favourite routes in this country.

1. Shkoder – Theth (through Thore Pass)

Cycling from Shkoder to Theth will be a challenge, but the reward will be worth every drop of sweat. The 1600 metres climb to Thore Pass will be full of breathtaking views of the Accursed Mountains, also called the Albanian Alps. The new road is paved, so you can do it on a road bike. It is usually closed from October to May (I was lucky, and in April 2022, the snow was already gone). 

The village of Theth is a remote and charming place with a unique culture. I recommend staying longer to enjoy some hikes (the most popular is the route to Valbona and the Peak of the Balkans trail). 

Back to Shkoder, you can take the same route or choose the real off-road challenge on the southern road through Nderlysaj (and visit the famous Blue Eye waterfall). This road following the Kir river is really rocky and strenuous, so brace yourself for some hike-a-biking. On the 55 kilometres long dirt road, there is just you versus nature. No shops, no civilisation (there are two tiny villages on the way) – make sure to get enough food and bring the camping gear.

2. Berat – Osum Canyon – Permet

Visiting the UNESCO-listed town of Berat is a must-do. The Ottoman houses, the medieval castle, and a relaxed atmosphere will enchant you. After the cultural experience, head into the wild and see the largest canyon in Albania. The Osum Canyon is 26 kilometres long and offers spectacular views with astonishing rock formations and numerous waterfalls.  

The road from Osum Canyon to Permet is one of the most challenging mountain roads ever cycled. I only recommend it if you are eager to face some mud, potholes and rocks to have the raw and untouched mountain landscape only for yourself. 

In Permet, I definitely recommend staying at Albturist Ecocamp Përmet, with an idyllic view over Dhëmbel and Nemërçkë mountains. The owner, Robert, is also a hiking and rafting guide. If you are looking for some adrenaline, he can take you rafting on Vjosa – the last wild river in Europe.

3. Permet – Korce – Lake Prespa – Lake Ohrid

The road from Permet to Korce through Leskovik allows you to admire the beauty of the Vjosa river and the mysterious charm of the Gramos mountains. You will find some great places to wild camp on the way. 

Korce is a vibrant and fascinating town with a beautiful bazaar, artsy vibe and rich history. From there, head up north to visit the Prespa National Park. Life in the villages on the shores of the lake is slow. The area is known for its rich biodiversity, including pelicans, turtles and brown bears. If you spend some time walking around, you will also discover some breathtaking historical sights, like old rock eremite churches from the middle ages.

From Lake Prespa to Lake Ohrid, you can go the same way and then turn in the direction of Zvezde. You will eventually reach Pogradec, a quiet, charming lakeside town. The alternative is to cross the border to North Macedonia and take the scenic route through the Galicica mountains (you can read more about it here). The latter will give you a chance to visit the city of Ohrid, which is rich in historical monuments and has a unique atmosphere. It tends to be crowded in the summer, so to avoid the crowds in the mid-season, Pogradec might be a better choice.

Highlights

Click on the map to see my route and the most interesting places I have visited.

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Any information you were missing in this article? Hit me up in the comments!