Cycling in Kyrgyzstan – practical bike touring guide

Ever since I saw some pictures of Karakol Valley on my friend’s Facebook, I dreamt of cycling in Kyrgyzstan. This little-known post-soviet country is sometimes called the Switzerland of Central Asia. In my opinion, Kyrgyzstan is Switzerland squared.

Not only are the mountains 3000 meters higher than the majestic Swiss Alps. The valleys are vast and unspoiled, unlike the Swiss, fully developed resorts with ski lifts, paved roads and restaurants everywhere. In Kyrgyzstan, the colours change all the time: from green meadows to brick-red canyons, from azure lakes to straw steppes.

Cycling in Kyrgyzstan is not a piece of cake. It requires strength, endurance and good planning. The mountain passes will take your breath away (literally, because of the lack of oxygen). The constant fight against the washboard roads will remind you of all the worst swearwords you ever knew.

But the unique mix of nomadic culture, soviet history and nature so stunning that it seems unreal will guarantee that every day in Kyrgyzstan will be an adventure.

How to get there?

Flights to Kyrgyzstan

The easiest way to get to Kyrgyzstan from most locations is a flight to Bishkek via Istanbul. Check out the offer of Turkish Airlines or Pegasus. I flew with Turkish Airlines from Sarajevo to Bishkek and returned with the same airline from Almaty to Prague.

You should also check the connections via Dubai with Emirates or Fly Dubai.

Sometimes, a cheaper alternative from Europe is to fly to Almaty in Kazakhstan. You can cross the border either by bike (you can visit the stunning Charyn Canyon on the way) or by marshrutka (minibus).

Read more about taking your bicycle on a plane and the requirements of different airlines here:

Taking a bicycle on a plane – all you need to know

Visa

Offering visa-free entry for citizens of 69 countries, Kyrgyzstan is the easiest accessible country in Central Asia. Citizens of most European countries can stay without a visa for 60 days. Check if your country is on the list on Caravanistan.com.

If you want to stay longer, you can simply renew your stay by crossing the border and re-entering the country. I met a British guy who practically lived in Bishkek and went on a trip to Almaty every other month not care about the visa.

Border permit

To enter some border areas, you will need a special border permit. It usually costs around 20-25 euros. You will need it to go to Inylchek, Lenin Peak Basecamp, Chong Kemin Valley, Kel Suu, Chatyr Kol, and the Ak Sai Valley. 

Contact CBT (Community Based Tourism Association to get help with organising it. It usually takes seven days, so make sure to reach out in advance. 

You can find a map of areas requiring a border permit on visitkarakol.com.

Bike rental in Kyrgyzstan

Most bicycle rental companies are located in Bishkek. They offer modern mountain bikes equipped with rear racks and prepared for a long tour. Some of them only accept cash.

• Freebike offers various models of Giant mountain bikes for 15 euros/day. All bikes have a rear rack. Freebike can also provide you with a pump, repair kit, spare chain, pedals, brakes, hex key, etc. They have full-suspension bikes and e-bikes too, as well as camping gear.
• Olga – They have cross-country mountain bikes for 15 euros/day. You can also rent a full-suspension bike, e-bike and camping gear.

Bike shops

It is best to have the crucial bicycle parts with you, as there are not many bike shops in Kyrgyzstan, especially outside of Bishkek. 

Bike shops in Bishkek

Extremal KG

Velodvor

Bike shop in Osh

The bike shop in Osh is rather small. If your bike breaks down deeper in the country, it is always worth looking for spares or someone who can fix it on a bazaar in Karakol, Naryn or Kochkor. 

Check out also recommendations from other bicycle travellers on this map:

Is Kyrgyzstan safe for solo female travellers?

Remain cautious, especially in the rural areas. After a few shots of vodka, the Kyrgyz men can give you some unwanted attention. A solo travelling woman is still a rare sight and might be even perceived as promiscuous.

Wear a fake wedding ring to avoid creepy comments and uncomfortable stares. People will still be curious why you are travelling alone, so make up a story. They respect marriage and will leave you alone. It’s even better to tell them you have kids, you will get extra respect points.

Be careful when wild camping. If you can’t find a camp spot that feels safe, ask the locals for permission to camp in their yard. 

Read my safety tips for solo camping as a woman here:

Camping alone as a woman – are you gonna die?

In general, Kyrgyzstan is not particularly dangerous for solo female travellers. However, I heard from some experienced cycle tourers that they felt less safe there than e.g. in Tajikistan. 

I also had some unpleasant experiences (luckily, nothing serious). You can read my stories here:

Kyrgyz tales, part 1: Always look on the bright side

Terrain

93 % of Kyrgyzstan is covered by mountains, and almost half of it is on an elevation higher than 3000 masl. You must be prepared for exhausting inclines. In the higher parts of the mountains, low oxygen can make the ride even more difficult for you. Cycling in Kyrgyzstan is definitely the Type 2 Fun – you will suffer, sweat, get cold and tired, but you will look back at your trip with a big smile a couple of months later.

Roads and traffic

Prepare for a lot of gravel and the famous Kyrgyz washboard – small frequent bumps that make cycling slow and annoying. More than 60 % of the roads in the country are gravel or dirt roads.

The main road between Bishkek and Osh is renovated and covered with perfect asphalt. The perfectly straight and lonely road from Naryn to the Chinese border is also well-maintained.

Kyrgyz drivers do not show much consideration towards the traffic rules and cyclists. They often speed, take over way too close and use the horn way too much.

I have distinguished 3 types of Kyrgyz honking: 1. cheerful, uplifting series of short honks followed by waving from the open car window. 2. warning „Careful, I am gonna take you over soon” single horn. 3. Aggressive „get the hell out of that road”-long honk, followed by taking you over way too fast and way too close. If you hear number 3, slow down, stop on the side of the road.

Except for the main roads, there is not much traffic. Usually, you will face a dilemma: you take a quiet, but challenging mountain road of poor quality, or stay on something with decent tarmac and fewer climbs but shared with crazy drivers.

The road along the shore of Issyk-Kul can be quite busy in the summer. The southern site tends to be a bit quieter. The tarmac is bumpy sometimes and if you want to feel safer, the roadside is wide. Unfortunately, it is also full of trash and shattered glass, so you need to be careful not to get a flat tire.

Tunnels

There are not many tunnels in Kyrgyzstan, but most cyclists have to decide, whether to go through the infamous Töö Ashuu Tunnel on the M41 road from Bishkek to Osh. It is both poorly ventilated and narrow. The alternative is the old gravel road through the Too Ashuu Pass (3.594m). The road is quite steep and narrow, so it will be a challenge, but it is still better than going through the toxic exhaust fumes.

Train and buses

Taking A bicycle on a marshrutka in Kyrgyzstan

It is possible to take your bike on a marshrutka (minibus) if there is space. Be at a bus stop ahead of time – the chance that there will be space for your bike will be higher. You might have to disassemble your bike so that it fits in the trunk. 

Important! The prices are not 100 % defined, so bargain to not get ripped off. I was once asked to pay for my bike the same amount as for my ticket. I agreed and later found out that my friend paid 60 % less on the same route.

Bus schedules are sometimes rather a suggestion than an actual schedule. Don’t be surprised that the driver waits for more passengers, even if the bus was supposed to leave 30 minutes ago.

Taking A bicycle on a train in Kyrgyzstan

There is only one train connection in Kyrgyzstan: Bishkek to Balykchy (Rybachye). It is slow – less than 200 km takes more than 5 hours (the same route by Marshrutka takes less than 3 hours).

The train ride is however a very unique experience, with amazing views behind the windows and babushkas selling traditional warm snacks. It is not popular among tourists. We were almost the only ones, and the conductor even wanted to take a picture with us.

The train is an old soviet train, and there is no special carriage for bicycles. At the train station, be alert and quickly catch the conductor to ask where you should go with the bike. I remember it as a lot of chaos and stress, as we were standing at the wrong side of the platform and had to run a lot. The doors were very narrow and the stairs steep, so loading the bike was challenging.

You can buy the ticket at the train station. In 2019, I paid about 2 euros for myself and my bicycle. The train runs only in summer. The current timetables are difficult to find online, you will have to check at the train station.

Weather

The best time to visit Kyrgyzstan for a bicycle tour is from mid-June to early September. In spring, most mountain passes will still be covered with snow, and even the semi-nomads with their yurts will move to the valley.

The weather in Kyrgyzstan can be unpredictable all year round, as most of the country lies at a high altitude. In lower areas, the summers are hot and dry. In Bishkek and Osh, the heat can be unbearable, with temperatures reaching even 40°C. 

Up in the mountains, freezing nights are not uncommon, even in the middle of the summer. Make sure to bring a warm sleeping bag and a good tent. Proper waterproof clothing and warm socks and gloves are a must too.

Wild camping in Kyrgyzstan

With its nomadic traditions and vast, unspoiled mountains, Kyrgyzstan is a perfect country for wild camping. Wild camping is allowed and finding a perfect spot for the night won’t be difficult.

Some of the best camping spots I had were located at Son-Kul Lake. There are several yurt camps at the northern shore, so you don’t even have to pitch your tent. 

I liked the southern side of the lake better, as it is more secluded, the steppe is enormous. It was one of the most magical places where I ever slept. Due to the high altitude (over 3000 m), the nights tend to be quite cold, so make sure to bring a warm sleeping bag.

There are also good camping possibilities on the shore of Issyk Kul, the second largest mountain lake in the world. You can take a swim in the surprisingly warm waters and refresh yourself.

Paid accommodation

Around the Issyk-Kul, there are plenty of guest houses where you can stay for very affordable money. Most of them offer also food.

Up in the mountains, in the more popular areas, there are yurt camps that host tourists. Don’t expect to take a warm shower there, as most of them are very basic, and the best they can offer is an outdoor shower.

At Son-Kul, we stayed at Yurt Camp Azamat. The price is 12 euros, including breakfast. For an additional fee, you can also order dinner (we had some really delicious plov).

Money

The currency is Kyrgyzstani som (KGS).

100 KGS = 1 EUR

You can exchange EUR and USD in all exchange offices that you will find in bigger towns. In 2019, when I was cycling in Kyrgyzstan, hostels, restaurants and shops in bigger towns accepted card payments (I was using MasterCard by Revolut). Using an ATM was also not a problem.

This might become more complicated now after the Russian invasion of Ukraine and the sanctions imposed on Russian banks by the West (read more on that thread on the Caravanistan forum). Most Kyrgyz banks use corresponding Russian banks for international transactions, so there might be problems with using a foreign bank card. 

If you don’t want to rely on a bank card, best to bring cash in USD. EUR is a good option too.

Internet and the local SIM card

Getting a SIM card in Kyrgyzstan is easy. You can get it at the Manas airport in Bishkek. Some hostels sell it (or offer it for free!) at their front desks. The biggest operators (Beeline, Megacom and O!) have their shops in all the major cities.

I used Megacom – the operator with the best coverage in Kyrgyzstan. Even with the best coverage, many places don’t have cellular service. It will work perfectly in the towns but expect a social media detox when cycling through the mountains.

The prices for the local SIM are low (e.g. 5 euros for 33 GB for 30 days!). If the package you bought turns out to be too little, you can top it up in a top-up machine. You will find them in shops in most towns.

Food and water

In the mountains, expect long stretches without any civilisation. Bring food supply for a couple of days. In the villages, the shops are usually not well stocked, offering a basic selection of bread, cheese and sweets. It’s best to buy some long-lasting food in the bigger towns.

My favourite snack for the road was Chechil – local smoked cheese that stays fresh for days and is deliciously salty.

Bishkek, Kochkor, Karakol, Osh and Naryn have bazaars with tasty, fresh fruits and a lot of great food. You can also find bigger supermarkets there, where you can stuff your panniers before heading into the wild.

You will find a lot of streams in the mountains, and you can get water from there. It is best to purify it (I use a LifeStraw filter, other options are water purifying tablets).

Is Kyrgyzstan vegetarian-friendly?

Everybody warned me I will be starving in Kyrgyzstan as a vegetarian. The reality was much better than I thought. In Bishkek and Karakol, you will find plenty of restaurants with vegetarian food. In Karakol, try Ashlan-Fu – a Dungan noodle speciality. You can have it in one of the diners at the bazaar.

I can also recommend Alma Ethno Cafe with a long list of vegetarian dishes like Lagman and ramen for 100-140 som (1-1,5 euro).

Language

Not a lot of people speak English, especially in the countryside. Kids in towns along the Issyk-Kul knew some English and were very keen to practice it. Basic knowledge of Russian will help you to get around. Only in a few remote areas in the mountains, you can meet people who speak only Kyrgyz. If you know Turkish, it will make it easier to understand Kyrgyz.

Best cycling routes in Kyrgyzstan

Balykchy-Kochkor-Song-Kul-Moldo Ashuu-Naryn

From Balykchy (1630 masl.), you will slowly climb to the highest point – Kalmak Ashuu Pass (3446 m). During the descent on a bumpy road, you can admire the sparkling blue waters of Song-Kul lake – one of the most popular places in Kyrgyzstan. You still can enjoy total tranquillity there – it’s easy to find a secluded camp spot on the boundless plateau around the lake.

The road through Moldo Ashuu Pass with its tight switchbacks is one of the most beautiful roads I’ve ever seen. There is a good chance you will not see a living soul for kilometres. The grass on the surrounding hills looks like suede, and the scenery seems surreal. 

After visiting Naryn, you can either return to Kochkor and ride along the southern shore of Issyk-Kul (see the trip description below) or continue through the mountains to the Tosor Pass. It will be a real challenge – the road to the 3896 metres high pass is steep and rocky, and the weather conditions can be tricky.

The southern shore of Issyk-Kul

The ride along the southern shore of Issyk-Kul Lake is a good option if you want to skip some exhausting climbs or if the weather in the mountains is miserable. It will also allow you to visit some of the touristy highlights in Kyrgyzstan, like Bokonbaevo (famous for traditional eagle hunting) and Skazka Canyon. You will also have a chance to enjoy the fantastic sandy beaches and benefit from the healing properties of the water in Issyk-Kul.

This route leads, unfortunately, on a relatively busy road. 

Take a detour to see the old soviet sanatorium and the Seven Bull Rocks in Jeti Oguz. Then go to Karakol, leave your bike in the hostel for two or three days and head on a trek to Ala-Kul Lake. With a mountain bike, you can also explore the Karakol Valley. I definitely recommend also cycling to Altyn Arashan. A long uphill ride on a rocky road is worth the effort – the valley is green and full of diverse wildlife (it is one of the few places in the world where there are still snow leopards), and your muscles can recover in natural hot springs!

Karakol – Chon-Ashuu – Engilchek

140 kilometres from Karakol lies a semi-abandoned mining town – Engilchek. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the mines were closed, and most people lost their jobs and left. Now only 30 families live there, and many buildings are abandoned. (Important: you need a border permit to go to Enilchek).

On the way to Engilchek, you have to climb a 3883-metres-high Chon-Ashuu Pass. The road is not very steep but bumpy and rocky, so it will cost you a lot of energy. Luckily, you can divide the climb into two parts and recover camping surrounded by absolutely scenic high mountains.

Check out this website for a map with the best cycling routes, camps, yurts and CBT offices.

My favourite places in Kyrgyzstan

… and some useful locations like water sources.

Resources

What to read before going to Kyrgyzstan? Where to find information for your bicycle tour to Kyrgyzstan?

Online resources

caravanistan.com – the website and forum are the best sources of information for travel to Central Asia

ountravela.com – maps and itineraries for off-road trips in Kyrgyzstan

thegonegoat.com – an article about cycling in Kyrgyzstan written by Pashmina – my cycling buddy during the trip to Kyrgyzstan in 2019

againstthecompass.com – with a lot of practical information and ideas for travelling “off the beaten path” in Kyrgyzstan

Books

Laurence Mitchell, Kyrgyzstan: The Bradt Travel Guide

Erika Fatland, Sovietistan. Travels in Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan 

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Are you planning a bicycle tour in Kyrgyzstan? Don’t hesitate to let me know in the comments if you have any questions!