While the Alpe Adria and other scenic cycling routes in the Alps attract thousands of active tourists each year, the picturesque Theth Valley in the Albanian Alps is still untouched by mass tourism. The remote location and rugged terrain make it a cyclist’s paradise, attracting adventurers seeking an authentic encounter with nature. I cycled from Shkoder to Theth in 2022 and can with certainty say it is not only one of the most beautiful cycling routes in the Balkans but even in Europe.
In this article, I will share practical tips on cycling in the Theth Valley, including the route description, accommodation, and things to do in the area.
The little catholic church in the centre of the village feels odd in this part of the world. Cycling all around Albania, I’ve seen mostly mosques and Orthodox churches. After the depleting climb to Theth, I felt like I’d teleported to the Dolomites.
Theth remained unique from the rest of Albania because of its remoteness. According to the locals, the first inhabitants moved to this secluded location from Shala Valley to preserve their Catholic faith and avoid conversion to Islam under Ottoman rule. For years, travellers from Shkoder had to spend long hours on a rocky and bendy track through Thore Pass.
Cycling to Theth via Thore Pass
There are two routes from Shkoder to Theth: the paved road via Thore Pass and the southern MTB route.
The road via Thore Pass was only fully paved in 2021 but is still closed over the winter. For that reason, most families close the shutters on the windows and leave their houses in October.
When does the road to Theth open?
It depends on the weather. In 2022, the winter was mild, and the road through the Thore Pass was already open end of April. Some snow was still lying around in the higher parts, but the asphalt was dry.
Typically, it opens around mid-May and closes end of November. It’s best to double-check with the locals if the road is passable.
How difficult is cycling from Shkoder to the Thore Pass to Theth?
The route through Thore Pass route from Shkoder to Theth is 75 km long, and you’ll have to climb from the sea level up to 1691 m. It ascends gradually, only in the steepest parts, and the gradient reaches 15 %.
Luckily, the entire road is paved, and the asphalt is of good quality, so it’s still perfectly doable, even when travelling with fully loaded panniers.
In some places, the road is a tad narrow. The traffic is rather calm, but you should watch out for cars, especially on the hairpins.
The off-road route to Theth via Nderlysaj
I saved the Thore Pass road for the descent and decided to treat myself to an off-road challenge – the southern route to Theth via Nderlysaj. If you’re an adventure seeker, don’t shy away from hike-a-biking and enjoy cycling through desolate landscapes, you’ll love the MTB route. But brace yourself for a lot of sweat and hardship!
The MTB route from Shkoder to Theth is almost 80 km long.
The first 25 kilometres to Prekal lead comfortably through asphalt roads. Later, that gets replaced by an off-road track along the emerald Kir River.
The highest point of this trail is 1220 m, and the steepest incline is on the hairpins between the 40th and 50th kilometre, before the settlement Kir.
Kir looks like an abandoned village with just a handful of decaying houses. There, you will have a chance to refill your water bottles.
The off-road route to Theth is quite demanding. On my way, I met a couple of French mountain bikers who had to turn back as they didn’t manage to cycle it in one day (despite looking pretty fit and sporty). A few off-road track drivers I met were shocked that I was travelling there with my fully loaded bike. I reassured them I knew what I was doing and had enough food, water and camping gear.
If you’re in perfect shape and travel light, you might be able to cycle the MTB route to Theth within a day.
I decided to take a break before the village of Kir. There are some phenomenal spots for wild camping there (see my map below). I slept by the river, where I could take a refreshing swim before the night.
Is the Theth-Valbona trail possible to do by bike?
The Theth-Valbona trail is one of the most popular hiking trails in the Accursed Mountains, with pristine landscapes and views stretching over to Kosovo and Montenegro.
Initially, I dreamt of cycling this legendary trail to enjoy the wildest corners of the Albanian Alps. I’ve heard of some people who managed to do that, but it is extremely challenging.
If you have a full-suspension mountain bike and good technical skills, you can attempt to cycle from Theth to Valbona. I wouldn’t recommend doing it before the end of June, though, as there might still be a lot of snow in the upper parts.
I also wouldn’t advise cycling the Theth-Valbona trail with the panniers unless you’re a masochist looking for type-2 fun aka pushing the bike for hours.
Accommodation in Theth
Guesthouses and hotels
Most guesthouses in Theth are basic and affordable, starting from 18 euros per night for a dorm bed. You won’t find luxuries there but will be welcomed with overwhelming hospitality and kindness.
There are a few guesthouses with more comfortable private rooms priced between 40 and 90 euros per night.
If you’re travelling with a tent, some guesthouses offer a place to camp for a mere 5 euros per night. I camped by the guesthouse Pal Rupa where I enjoyed the mountain views and the captivating tales about the mountain life told by the owner when we had a cup of tasty Turkish coffee.
Wild camping
The Theth Valley is a paradise for wild camping. I enjoyed two nights of wild camping surrounded from all sides by the majestic mountains and the smell of wild thyme.
You can find some of the potential camping spots on the map at the end of this article.
Shops and restaurants in Theth
Embarking on a cycling trip to Theth, make sure to stock up with food (especially if you choose the southern MTB route). There are no shops on the way.
In the village of Theth, there is a small supermarket where you can get the essentials like bread and sweets. Don’t count on buying proper food.
There is also a (quite average) pizza place. Some guesthouses offer a traditional Albanian dinner.
Bring cash, as there is no ATM in Theth.
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Thank you for the detailed blog. Great photos