Cycling in Bosnia and Herzegovina was my favourite part of the three-month-long solo trip around Europe, my first solo cycling adventure. This little Balkan country enchanted me so much that I returned a year later to spend even more time biking up the steep hills, enjoying the vast mountainous landscape and learning more about the complicated history and fascinating mix of cultures.
If you’re planning to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina with your bike, I hope my practical guide will help you prepare for your cycling adventure.
How to get there?
Do I need a visa to enter Bosnia & Herzegovina?
Citizens of countries such as the US, Canada, the UK, all Schengen member states and many more can travel to Bosnia & Herzegovina without a visa as long as their stay doesn’t extend 90 days within 180 days. Check out this website for a full list of countries that can enter Bosnia without a visa
If your country is not on the list, you need a short-stay visa.
You can find more information on the official website of the Ministry of Security.
Crossing the border to Bosnia by bicycle
I crossed the border between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina by bicycle four times, at four different border crossings: Slavonski Brod-Brod, Metković-Doljani, Prisika-Arzano and Petrovo Selo-Izacic. It was easy and uncomplicated to cross by bicycle – the border guards quickly checked my passport, asked for the purpose of my stay and wished me safe travels.
There are plenty of other border crossings between Croatia and Bosnia and a few between Bosnia and Serbia and Bosnia and Montenegro. You should be able to cross them all by bicycle. If you have any experience entering Bosnia through other border crossings on your bicycle, feel free to share it in the comments.
Travelling to Bosnia and Herzegovina by train
Currently, there are no international trains to Bosnia and Herzegovina. There used to be a direct Intercity train from Zagreb to Sarajevo, but since 2016, it has been suspended.
Travelling to Bosnia and Herzegovina by plane
The biggest international airport is Sarajevo, with direct flights from London, Stockholm, Hamburg, Frankfurt, Munich, Zurich, Istanbul, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Vienna, Belgrade and Zagreb.
You can also find affordable connections with WizzAir to Tuzla (from Eindhoven, Billund, Vienna, Basel, Malmo, Stockholm and multiple German cities) or Banja Luka (RyanAir and WizzAir flights from a handful of European cities).
Getting a cardboard box for your bicycle in Sarajevo shouldn’t be too difficult. I took a flight from Sarajevo with my bike twice and in both cases, I found a box within 2-3 hours.
Travelling to Bosnia and Herzegovina by bus
Many buses run regularly between major European cities and Sarajevo, including Flix Bus from Zagreb, Berlin and Budapest, but don’t allow taking a bicycle with you. You can, however, try to get in touch with the carrier in advance and ask if it is possible to transport your bike in the luggage compartment.
Another option is to travel to Zagreb, Croatia. You can take your bicycle on the Flixbus buses to Zagreb from Berlin, Venice, Budapest, Vienna and Prague. The prices are very affordable, and you will avoid the hassle of disassembling your bike because it will comfortably travel on a luggage rack.
Bike rental
Only a few companies in Bosnia & Herzegovina offer to rent bicycles equipped with luggage racks suitable for multiple-day touring.
The best one I’ve found is iHouse Bike Rental in Mostar which has good quality mountain bikes with hydraulic brakes and 29’’ wheels.
For 20 euros/day, they include a helmet, tire repair kit, essential tools, an air pump, lights, a water bottle, a luggage rack, a safety locker and two panniers (20 l each). For an additional fee, you can request drop-off in another town.
Is Bosnia & Herzegovina safe for solo female travellers?
Travelling in Bosnia & Herzegovina is no more dangerous for solo female travellers than visiting any other European country. Of course, dangerous situations can occur, and you should take the usual precautions, but street harassment is rare.
Terrain
Like all Balkans, Bosnia & Herzegovina is a very mountainous country. You will have to conquer many steep and challenging hills. Good physical preparation and light baggage will make your cycling adventure in Bosnia much more pleasurable.
Bike lanes, traffic and safety on the roads
The cycling culture is still developing in Bosnia and Herzegovina. On busier roads, you might feel uncomfortable as the cars don’t always maintain proper distance when overtaking cyclists, and there is rarely enough roadside.
There are luckily plenty of smaller and quieter roads where you will see just a few cars per hour.
When it comes to cities, Bike lanes only exist in certain parts of Sarajevo, and especially entering and exiting the city might be a tad challenging.
In the mountains, you will likely cycle through some tunnels that are not well-lit. You should have decent bicycle lights and a reflective vest to ensure you’re visible to drivers.
Bike shops in Sarajevo
If something is wrong with your bicycle or if you need a cardboard box for your bike for the flight, the best place to find help is Sarajevo. There are a few pretty good bike shops in the city. I used their services a few times: to replace the tires, fix a broken spoke, replace a luggage rack and get brake pads replaced. For the last one, it took a while to find a shop with a suitable model in stock, but I guess it is normal, especially considering current supply chain issues.
The bike shops in Sarajevo are quite well stocked and have high-quality parts and accessories, so if you’re on a long bicycle tour and just passing by through Bosnia, it can be a perfect place to fix any issues you have with your bike and buy any spares you might need on the way.
Here is a list of the best bike shops in Sarajevo:
- Ciklo Centar
- Ciklo Centar Ilidža (close to the airport)
- M-Bike Shop
- Bicikli.ba
Taking a bicycle on a train in Bosnia and Herzegovina
The train network in Bosnia and Herzegovina is far from well-developed., There are, however, some connections between the major cities, for example, Banja Luka – Sarajevo and Čapljina – Mostar – Sarajevo.
There are two train operators: the Railways of Republika Srpska and the Railways of Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Neither of them has specified rules or cars designed for the transportation of bicycles.
It doesn’t mean taking a bicycle on a train is impossible in Bosnia and Herzegovina. But it depends on your luck.
I managed to take my bicycle on a train from Čapljina to Sarajevo in 2018 when I couldn’t continue cycling due to a knee injury.
The process was quite complicated. First, I asked at the ticket counter if I could buy a ticket for myself and my bike. The lady told me they didn’t have bicycle tickets, and she was unsure if I could travel with my bike. I was told to talk to the conductor.
I went to the platform, where the conductor looked at my bike with a mix of doubt and irritation, then made a few calls and finally told me the good news. He helped me put my bike on the train, and once we arrived in Sarajevo, he helped me unload it too.
If the train is full, you will most likely be denied taking your bike on a train. Don’t count on it also if you’re travelling as a group.
Weather
Summer tends to be hot and dry, so cycling in Bosnia and Herzegovina in July and August can be strenuous and even dangerous. A better time to visit this country is from May to June or from September to October when the temperatures become more moderate. In the mountains, it can already become a little chilly so bring a good jacket and a warm sleeping bag if you’re camping.
Water
Is it safe to drink tap water in Bosnia & Herzegovina?
During my cycling trips in Bosnia, I always drank tap water and didn’t experience any stomach problems. The WHO also confirms that tap water is safe to drink in 99% of the country.
There are sometimes long stretches through the mountains between villages. It can happen that you won’t see any shop for 30-40 kilometres. Occasionally, you will find a public fountain at the roadside but, especially in the summer, it’s important to carry an extra supply of water.
Wild camping
Wild camping in Bosnia and Herzegovina is not prohibited. In the mountains, you will find plenty of scenic, secluded spots. You have to remain cautious, though. Even though it’s been 27 years since the Bosnian war, some areas are still contaminated with landmines.
Before looking for a camp spot for the night, use the BH Mine Suspected Areas App (available for Android and iOS) to check if the place is safe. Even if it’s not marked in the app, avoid places that look like people don’t walk there. Stay away from all the areas marked with signs saying “Pazi Mine”.
Accommodation
If you don’t feel like wild camping, you can find a range of affordable hostels and guest houses. The price for a dorm bed in Sarajevo and Mostar varies between 11 and 21 euros. You can find a private room or even an apartment for as little as 20-25 euros per night.
There are also many nice campsites where you can stay even for as little as 6 euros. I can recommend Camping at Boracko Lake and Camping Miris Ljeta in Ostrozac.
Money
The currency in Bosnia & Herzegovina is the convertible mark (KM). It has a fixed exchange rate to euro. 1 KM = 0,51 euro.
Big supermarkets, hotels and main tourist attractions in the cities accept card payments. For small hostels, guesthouses and campsites, lesser-known tourist attractions, restaurants and shopping in small villages, you will need cash.
I usually use a Revolut card when travelling to get a good conversion rate and avoid the hassle of looking for exchange offices. Using the Revolut card, you can withdraw cash from ATMs of Addiko Bank with no extra fees. Other banks might charge you an additional charge.
Internet and local sim card
To avoid an atrociously high phone bill for international roaming after your cycling holidays in Bosnia and Herzegovina, get a local SIM card. I always have one to research my route, find accommodation and stay in touch with people at home.
The last time I cycled in Bosnia, I used the BH Telecom SIM card. They have a variety of data packages for an affordable price. For example, 25 GB of data (with no expiration date) costs about 26 KM. They have many sales points in all the bigger cities in B&H. You can also find SIM cards in some convenience stores and kiosks. I had no problem finding a shop selling SIM cards right after crossing the border from Croatia in Brod and Bihać.
Best cycling routes in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Ciro Trail
The most popular cycling route in Bosnia & Herzegovina is the Ciro Trail, a 157 km long trail built on the old narrow-gauge railway from Mostar to Dubrovnik. It allows you to see some of the most beautiful sights in the country like the Mostar Bridge and the Zavala Monastery.
Most of the Ciro Trail follows small country roads with little traffic. Some stretches go through remote areas with no villages and settlements, so you should always carry enough water and food.
Along Naretva River from Sarajevo to Omis
This is one of the most beautiful routes I’ve ever taken in my entire life. Cycling through rough mountains like Visocica and Bjelasnica and following the turquoise Naretva River from the Bosnian capital to the Adriatic coast in Croatia was a real adventure, and the raw landscapes were a real candy for my eyes.
I have described it in more detail in this article.
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