Cycling in the Netherlands – Practical bike touring guide

Widely concidered the most cyclist-friendly country in the world, the Netherlands is a perfect destination for any bike-traveller, regardless of their experience and fitness level. In 2020, during my first trip to the country of tulips, I was struck by how easy it was to navigate the perfectly-designed bicycle paths.

And cycling in the Netherlands is far from boring (even for such a mountain-geek as myself)! From the sandy beaches of Zeeland, through the vibrant cities of Rotterdam, Zwolle, Amsterdam and Groningen to the quiet countryside in Frisia, cycling through the Netherlands was a perfect way to spend my holidays.

Travelling to the Netherlands with your bicycle

Plane

If you’re travelling to the Netherlands from outside of Europe, there is a good chance you’ll be flying with KLM. You can take your bike with you but their prices for intercontinental flights are pretty high, so it might be worth renting a bike in the Netherlands instead. You can read more about KLM’s bike policy on its official website. 

It’s possible to buy a KLM bicycle box at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport for 20 euros. 

Train

From the UK

You cannot take your bike on the Eurostar train from London to Amsterdam, unless it’s disassembled and packed in a box or bag. You need to drop it off at the Eurostar luggage area before the departure. You’ll have to add the bicycle as extra luggage (you can do it by clicking manage my booking and add extra luggage on the Eurostar website.

From Germany

The easiest and fastest way to get from Germany to the Netherlands with your bicycle is by taking the ICE train from Berlin to Amsterdam. There are six departures per day and the ride takes less than six hours. The tickets start from 38 euros (it’s best to book your ticket early).

The train has space for eight bicycles. Unfortunately, it’s not possible to make a booking with your bicycle online. You have to call NS International for your reservation.

There are also a few regional trains connecting cities in Germany and the Netherlands. You can use the Deutsche Bahn planner to find your connection and book the ticket.

From Belgium

There are direct Eurostar trains from Brussels to Amsterdam, but the bikes need to be packed and with both wheels removed.

A better alternative is the Eurocity Direct train from Brussels South to Schiphol Airport (Via Rotterdam). The bicycle ticket costs 16,2 euros and you can buy it here. 

There are also several regional trains connecting cities in Belgium and the Netherlands. Use the international website of Belgian Railways to find your connection. Don’t forget that you always need to buy your bicycle ticket separately.

From France

You can take your bicycle on the Thalys train from Paris to Amsterdam, but it has to be disassembled and stored in a non-rigid cover no larger than 135x85x30 cm. You can find more information here. 

Flixbus

Flixbus can be a low-cost alternative for trains if you’re travelling to Amsterdam from Berlin or Brussels. Only selected buses are equipped with bicycle racks.  The journey, however, is quite long and less comfortable than by train.

Bike rental in the Netherlands

Bringing a bicycle to the Netherlands might feel like carrying coals to Newcastle. If you’re not very attached to your own two-wheeler, you can easily rent a bike in the Netherlands. Here are some of the best options I found:

At CCT Bike Rental, you can rent a bike in multiple Dutch cities such as Amsterdam, the Hague, Utrecht, Eindhoven and more. They offer trekking, gravel, road and electric bikes, for a minimum of four days.

At MacBike you can rent a typical Dutch city bike that is perfect for exploring the cities. It costs 18 euros/day.

Terrain

Most of the Netherlands is as flat as it gets, making this country a perfect destination for first-time bicycle tourers. If you’re not in terrific shape and hate the climbs, you will love the Dutch roads. 

If you’re looking for some variation and enjoy some hills, visit South Limburg – a province bordering with Belgium and Germany that is famous for the Amstel Gold Race and some legendary climbs, such as Cauberg or Keutenberg.

Bike lanes, traffic rules and safety on the roads

The Netherlands are famous for the best and safest cycling infrastructure in the world. Unlike everywhere else in the world, road design prioritises cyclists. In most places, the cycling lanes are wide, separated from the car traffic and well-marked. 

There are, however, a few spots in Amsterdam that might feel hectic for you, especially if you’re not a seasoned cyclist.

Traffic rules for cyclists in the Netherlands

• Don’t text and ride! You can get a 95 euro fine for using your phone during cycling! If you’re using your phone for navigation, it needs to be placed on a bike mount (I recommend Quad Lock – a sturdy and durable phone mount). 

• Helmets are not compulsory and are rarely worn by the Dutch. The cycling infrastructure is very safe, so most people simply don’t deem it necessary. But you do you! 
• Make sure your lights and your bell work properly. You need to have a proper front and rear light. 
• Signal when taking a turn! Of course, you should be doing it anywhere you cycle, but since there are many cyclists in the Netherlands, it’s even more important to do it there. 

Knooppunt – cycling junction network

The cycling routes in the Netherlands are connected in a nationwide network and, similarly to Belgium, the junctions have signposts with numbers making it easy to navigate. 

This way, you can cycle without looking at your phone or navigation. You simply plan your route, note the numbers of knooppunt down on a piece of paper that you stick to your handlebar and follow them!

Taking your bicycle on a train in the Netherlands

You can take your bicycle on the Dutch trains (NS) if there is a designated space for bikes. Bikes are only allowed from 9 am to 4 pm from Monday to Friday, and all day on weekends and during July and August to avoid having too many bikes on board during the rush hours. 

To take your bicycle on a Durch train, you must purchase a bicycle ticket (Fietskaart Dal). It costs 7,50 euros and can be bought online or in the NS ticket machine. 

Taking a folding bike on a train is free of charge as long as you fold your bike. 

To get to the platform, you must scan your ticket to pass through the gates. When I was travelling with my fully loaded, chunky bike, I struggled to get through the narrow gate. You should take the panniers off or ask the staff for help.

Weather

The Dutch weather can be moody. No matter when you’re visiting, bring a good raincoat.

The best time for cycling in the Netherlands is from April to October. If you visit in April and May, you’ll get a chance to cycle among the famous Dutch tulip fields. In the Summer, popular tourist spots tend to be busy, but the days are long, and the weather encourages you to spend a lot of time outside. 

The wind from the North Sea can be chilly and if you’re cycling against it, even the flat routes will be exhausting.

Wild camping in the Netherlands

Wild camping is illegal in the Netherlands. The country is densely populated, so it’s hard to find a secluded spot to pitch your tent. There used to be a network of official semi-wild campsites, but most were closed because people left them dirty. There are still a few spots where you can legally camp for free you can find them on this website (only in Dutch).

Many hospitable people in the Netherlands will let you pitch your tent in their garden. You can find them on the website Welcome To My Garden. Read more about staying with locals on a bicycle tour here. 

CouchSurfing and WarmShowers in the Netherlands

Travelling and bicycle touring are very popular among the Dutch. Plenty of people who cycled abroad and stayed with the locals are now willing to pay back as CouchSurfing or WarmShowers hosts. You shouldn’t have problems finding a local to host you (maybe except for Amsterdam – this city has so many tourists that all the hosts receive way too many requests, so make sure to secure a place to stay in advance). 

Paid accommodation

The hotel and hostel prices in the Netherlands are high. The cheapest dorm bed in Amsterdam or Rotterdam costs 25 euros. A simple double room costs about 80 euros.

There are plenty of campsites around the country, where you can stay for about 13-15 euros per person.

You can also try staying with Frienden Op de Fiets (Friends of the Bike). It is a community of bicycle-friendly people who host guests in their rooms for 25 euros per night. 

Best cycling routes in the Netherlands

Ronde van Nederland

Looking for the ultimate long-distance cycling route in the Netherlands? The iconic Ronde van Nederland is perfect for you! It combines several sections of national cycling routes, creating a 1385 km long loop around the whole country. 

You can find more information about Ronde van Nederland and the GPS file on this website

Around Zeeland

Most people underrate these islands in the south of the Netherlands but in my opinion, Zeeland is a perfect place for relaxing cycling holidays. Sure, the landscape is not as exciting as in New Zealand (which was named after the Dutch province), but with plenty of cycling routes and stunning sand dunes, Zeeland is a terrific destination for beginner cycle tourists and families.

Here is the loop I took in 2020:

The Dunes and Tulips

If you’re visiting the Netherlands in spring, you cannot miss cycling through the tulip fields. The best idea is to combine it with cycling through the Zandvoort Dunes with beautiful grasslands and various wildlife. 

Utrecht and Utrechtse Heuvelrug National Park

You should definitely visit the world’s most bike-friendly city – Utrecht. Enjoy the perfectly designed wide bike lanes and check out the largest bicycle parking garage in the world. But beware of the risk – after cycling in Utrecht, you’ll notice all the flaws of the cycling infrastructure in your hometown! 

If you’re looking for calm surroundings and nature, you should head to Utrechtse Heuvelrug National Park – one of the biggest national parks in the Netherlands. It has many kilometres of bicycle paths and a lovely scout campPBC Austerlitz. Contrary to the large commercial campsites, this one has a cool pioneer vibe that feels almost like camping wild in the woods. They let me stay for one night for 7,5 euros. 

Resources

Holland Cycling Routes – Route Planner

Holland Cycling Routes – the official Dutch organisation for recreational cycling – has created an online route planner. It allows you to easily create a route and download a GPS file which you can later upload to the navigation app or device you’re using. Alternatively, you can note down the knooppunt (the cycling junction numbers) and follow the signs along the route. 

The route planner also shows many POIs, such as service stations, e-bike charging stations, campsites, bike-friendly B&Bs, obstacles and ferries. It also shows the ferry schedule, which allows you to avoid waiting for a boat to cross one of many canals on your way! 

Not Just Bikes

If you want to learn more about urban mobility and how the Netherlands became the most cycling-friendly country in the world, I recommend you watch some videos by Not Just Bikes on YouTube.