Cycling in Bosnia and Herzegovina – Practical Bike Touring Guide

Cycling in Bosnia and Herzegovina was my favourite part of the three-month-long solo trip around Europe, my first solo cycling adventure. This little Balkan country enchanted me so much that I returned a year later to spend even more time biking up the steep hills, enjoying the vast mountainous landscape and learning more about the complicated history and fascinating mix of cultures.

If you plan to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina with your bike, I hope my practical guide will help you prepare for your cycling adventure.

Jak dojechać?

Do I need a visa to enter Bosnia & Herzegovina?

Citizens of countries such as the US, Canada, the UK, all Schengen member states and many more can travel to Bosnia & Herzegovina without a visa as long as their stay doesn’t extend 90 days within 180 days. Check out na tej stronie for a full list of countries that can enter Bosnia without a visa

You need a short-stay visa if your country is not on the list. 

You can find more information on the official website of the Ministry of Security.

Crossing the border to Bosnia by bicycle

I crossed the border between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina by bicycle four times at four different border crossings: Slavonski Brod-Brod, Metković-Doljani, Prisika-Arzano i Petrovo Selo-Izacic. Crossing by bicycle was easy and uncomplicated – the border guards quickly checked my passport, asked for the purpose of my stay and wished me safe travels.

There are plenty of other border crossings between Croatia and Bosnia, and a few between Bosnia and Serbia and Bosnia and Montenegro. You should be able to cross them all by bicycle. If you have any experience entering Bosnia through other border crossings on your bicycle, please share it in the comments.

Travelling to Bosnia and Herzegovina by train

Currently, there are no international trains to Bosnia and Herzegovina. There used to be a direct Intercity train from Zagreb to Sarajevo, but since 2016, it has been suspended. 

Travelling to Bosnia and Herzegovina by plane

Sarajevo is the biggest international airport, with direct flights from London, Stockholm, Hamburg, Frankfurt, Munich, Zurich, Istanbul, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Vienna, Belgrade, and Zagreb.

You can also find affordable connections with WizzAir to Tuzla (from Eindhoven, Billund, Vienna, Basel, Malmo, Stockholm and multiple German cities) or Banja Luka (RyanAir and WizzAir flights from a handful of European cities). 

Getting a cardboard box for your bicycle in Sarajevo shouldn’t be too difficult. I took a flight from Sarajevo with my bike twice, and in both cases, I found a box within 2-3 hours.

Travelling to Bosnia and Herzegovina by bus

Many buses run regularly between major European cities and Sarajevo, including the Flix Bus from Zagreb, Berlin, and Budapest. However, you cannot take a bicycle with you. You can, however, try to contact the carrier in advance and ask if it is possible to transport your bike in the luggage compartment.

Another option is to travel to Zagreb, Croatia. You can take your bicycle on the Flixbus buses to Zagreb from Budapest, Vienna, and Prague. The prices are very affordable, and you will avoid the hassle of disassembling your bike because it will comfortably travel on a luggage rack.

Wypożyczenie roweru w Norwegii

Only a few companies in Bosnia & Herzegovina offer to rent bicycles equipped with luggage racks suitable for multiple-day touring.

You can rent a bike from the iHouse Bike Rental in Mostar. They have good-quality mountain bikes with hydraulic brakes and 29-inch wheels. 

For 20 euros/day, they include a helmet, tyre repair kit, essential tools, an air pump, lights, a water bottle, a luggage rack, a safety locker and two panniers (20 l each). For an additional fee, you can request drop-off in another town.

They also have E-bikes (for 40 euros/day).

Herzegovina Bike in Mostar is another company that rents bicycles. For 15 euros/ day, they include a helmet, pump, bike lock, and tyre repair kit. You’ll have to pay extra for a luggage rack and panniers.

Ukształtowanie terenu

Like all Balkans, Bosnia & Herzegovina is a very mountainous country. You will have to conquer many steep and challenging hills. Good physical preparation and light baggage will make your cycling adventure in Bosnia much more pleasurable.

Drogi rowerowe i bezpieczeństwo na drogach

The cycling culture is still developing in Bosnia and Herzegovina. However, you might feel uncomfortable on busier roads, as cars don’t always maintain the proper distance when overtaking cyclists, and there is rarely enough roadside space.

Luckily, there are plenty of smaller and quieter roads on which you can see only a few cars per hour. 

Regarding cities, bike lanes only exist in certain parts of Sarajevo, and entering and exiting the city might be a tad challenging. 

In the mountains, you will likely cycle through some tunnels that are not well-lit. You should have decent bicycle lights and a reflective vest to ensure you’re visible to drivers. 

Bike shops in Sarajevo

If something is wrong with your bicycle or you need a cardboard box for your bike for the flight, Sarajevo is the best place to find help. There are a few pretty good bike shops in the city. I used their services a few times: to replace the tyres, fix a broken spoke, replace a luggage rack, and replace brake pads. For the last one, finding a shop with a suitable model in stock took a while, but I guess it is normal, especially considering current supply chain issues.

The bike shops in Sarajevo are quite well stocked and have high-quality parts and accessories, so if you’re on a long bicycle tour and just passing by through Bosnia, it can be a perfect place to fix any issues you have with your bike and buy any spares you might need on the way.

Here is a list of the best bike shops in Sarajevo:

• Ciklo Centar
• Ciklo Centar Ilidža (close to the airport)
• M-Bike Shop
• Bicikli.ba

Taking a bicycle on a train in Bosnia and Herzegovina

The train network in Bosnia and Herzegovina is far from well-developed. There are, however, some connections between the major cities, for example, Banja Luka – Sarajevo and Čapljina – Mostar – Sarajevo.

W Bośni funkcjonuje dwóch przewoźników: Koleje Republiki Serbskiej i Koleje Federacji Bośni i Hercegowiny. Neither of them has specified rules or cars designed for the transportation of bicycles. 

It doesn’t mean taking a bicycle on a train is impossible in Bosnia and Herzegovina. But it depends on your luck.

I took my bicycle on a train from Čapljina to Sarajevo in 2018 when I couldn’t continue cycling due to a knee injury. 

The process was quite complicated. First, I asked at the ticket counter if I could buy a ticket for myself and my bike. The lady told me they didn’t have bicycle tickets, and she was unsure if I could travel with my bike. I was told to talk to the conductor.

I went to the platform, where the conductor looked at my bike with a mix of doubt and irritation, then made a few calls and finally told me the good news. He helped me put my bike on the train, and once we arrived in Sarajevo, he helped me unload it too. 

If the train is full, you will most likely be denied boarding with your bike. Don’t count on it also if you’re travelling as a group.

Pociągiem z rowerem po Europie - przewodnik po zasadach w różnych krajach

Pogoda

Summer tends to be hot and dry, so cycling in Bosnia and Herzegovina in July and August can be strenuous. A better time to visit this country is from May to June or from September to October when the temperatures become more moderate. In the mountains, it can already become a little chilly, so bring a good jacket and a warm sleeping bag if you’re camping.

Water

Is it safe to drink tap water in Bosnia & Herzegovina?

During my cycling trips in Bosnia, I always drank tap water and didn’t experience any stomach problems. The WHO also confirms that tap water is safe to drink in 99% of the country.

There are sometimes long stretches through the mountains between villages. It can happen that you won’t see any shop for 30-40 kilometres. Occasionally, you will find a public fountain at the roadside, but, especially in the summer, it’s important to have an extra water supply.

Spanie na dziko

Wild camping in Bosnia and Herzegovina is not prohibited. In the mountains, you will find plenty of scenic, secluded spots. You have to remain cautious, though. Even though it’s been 27 years since the Bosnian war, some areas are still contaminated with landmines. 

Before looking for a camp spot for the night, use the BH Mine Suspected Areas App (available for Android i iOS) to check if the place is safe. Even if it’s not marked in the app, avoid places that look like people don’t walk there. Stay away from all the areas marked with signs saying “Pazi Mine”.

Accommodation

If you don’t feel like wild camping, you can find a range of affordable hostels and guest houses. The price for a dorm bed in Sarajevo i Mostar varies between 11 and 21 euros. You can find a private room or an apartment for as little as 20-25 euros per night.

There are also many nice campsites where you can stay even for as little as 6 euros. I can recommend Camping at Boracko Lake i Camping Miris Ljeta in Ostrozac. 

Pieniądze

The currency in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the convertible mark (KM). It has a fixed exchange rate to the euro: 1 KM = 0.51 euro. 

Big supermarkets, hotels, and the city’s main tourist attractions accept card payments. However, you will need cash for small hostels, guesthouses, and campsites, lesser-known tourist attractions, restaurants, and shopping in small villages. 

I usually use a Revolut card when travelling to get a good conversion rate and avoid the hassle of looking for exchange offices. Using the Revolut card, you can withdraw cash from ATMs of Addiko Bank with no extra fees. Other banks might charge you an additional charge. 

Internet i lokalne karty SIM

Get a local SIM card to avoid an atrociously high phone bill for international roaming after your cycling holidays in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I always have one to research my route, find accommodation and stay in touch with people at home. 

The last time I cycled in Bosnia, I used the BH Telecom SIM card. They have a variety of data packages for an affordable price. For example, 25 GB of data (with no expiration date) costs about 26 KM. They have many sales points in all the bigger cities in B&H. You can also find SIM cards in some convenience stores and kiosks. I had no problem finding a shop selling SIM cards right after crossing the border from Croatia in Brod and Bihać.

If you want to avoid wasting time looking for a SIM card during your trip, get an eSIM. Airalo offers various packages for Bosnia and Herzegovina. For example, 1GB, valid for 7 days, costs 4,50 USD, and 10GB, valid for 30 days, costs 21 USD.

Best cycling routes in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Ciro Trail

The most popular cycling route in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the Ciro Trail, a 157-km trail built on the old narrow-gauge railway from Mostar to Dubrovnik. It lets you see the country’s most beautiful sights, such as the Mostar Bridge and the Zavala Monastery. 

Most of the Ciro Trail follows small country roads with little traffic. Some stretches go through remote areas with no villages and settlements, so you should always carry enough water and food.

Along Naretva River from Sarajevo to Omis

This is one of the most beautiful routes I’ve ever taken. Cycling through rough mountains like Visocica and Bjelasnica and following the turquoise Naretva River from the Bosnian capital to the Adriatic coast in Croatia was a real adventure, and the raw landscapes were a real treat for my eyes. 

I have described it in more detail in this article.