{"id":17592,"date":"2024-10-14T11:23:11","date_gmt":"2024-10-14T09:23:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wobblyride.com\/?p=17592"},"modified":"2025-10-24T17:24:26","modified_gmt":"2025-10-24T15:24:26","slug":"cycling-trans-dinarica-everything-you-need-to-know","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wobblyride.com\/pl\/2024\/10\/14\/cycling-trans-dinarica-everything-you-need-to-know\/","title":{"rendered":"Trans Dinarica - trasa rowerowa \u0142\u0105cz\u0105ca ca\u0142e Ba\u0142kany"},"content":{"rendered":"

Trans Dinarica to pierwsza trasa rowerowa \u0142\u0105cz\u0105ca osiem ba\u0142ka\u0144skich kraj\u00f3w. 5500-kilometrowy szlak przebiega przez S\u0142oweni\u0119, Chorwacj\u0119, Bo\u015bni\u0119 i Hercegowin\u0119, Serbi\u0119, Kosowo, Czarnog\u00f3r\u0119, Macedoni\u0119 P\u00f3\u0142nocn\u0105 i Albani\u0119. Kr\u00f3tko po oficjalnym otwarciu Trans Dinarica zosta\u0142a okrzykni\u0119ta jednym z najlepszych turystycznych projekt\u00f3w w roku 2024 przez CNN i inne \u015bwiatowe media.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Od chwili, gdy pierwszy raz us\u0142ysza\u0142am o Trans Dinarice wiedzia\u0142am, \u017ce musz\u0119 j\u0105 przetestowa\u0107. Ba\u0142kany to m\u00f3j ulubiony kierunek rowerowych podr\u00f3\u017cy. Nie mog\u0142am si\u0119 wi\u0119c doczeka\u0107 peda\u0142owania przez g\u00f3ry po wyznaczonej trasie, bez martwienia si\u0119, czy drogi, kt\u00f3rymi jad\u0119 s\u0105 przejezdne i bezpieczne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I cycled a section of Trans Dinarica from Podgorica to Sarajevo. I can confidently call it one of the best cycling routes I’ve ever done.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

W tym artykule znajdziesz najwa\u017cniejsze informacje o trasie i praktyczne wskaz\u00f3wki, kt\u00f3re u\u0142atwi\u0105 ci planowanie przygody z Trans Dinaric\u0105.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you want to learn more about Trans Dinarica, check out also my article on BBC Travel<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"cycling<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dlaczego warto pojecha\u0107 na Trans Dinaric\u0119?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Co wyr\u00f3\u017cnia Trans Dinarik\u0119 na tle setek d\u0142ugodystansowych tras rowerowych w ca\u0142ej Europie? Zdecydowanie r\u00f3\u017cnorodno\u015b\u0107 krajobrazu i dziko\u015b\u0107 natury. G\u00f3ry Dynarskie to jedno z ostatnich miejsc w Europie, gdzie mo\u017cna do\u015bwiadczy\u0107 samotno\u015bci i spokoju w nietkni\u0119tych przez masow\u0105 turystyk\u0119 miejscach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But you won’t be bored for a second. The landscape on the Trans Dinarica trail changes constantly, from alpine landscapes to dramatic coastal roads, deep ancient lakes, untamed rivers and rugged mountain plains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ba\u0142kany maj\u0105 tak\u017ce niezwykle bogat\u0105 histori\u0119. Trans Dinarica przebiega obok wielu zabytk\u00f3w wpisanych na list\u0119 dziedzictwa UNESCO, takich jak Stary Most w Mostarze, region Jeziora Ochrydzkiego, Monastyr w Decani i kompleks Stari Ras.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Ohrid\"
Cerkiew \u015awi\u0119tego Jana Teologa w Kaneo, Ochryd<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cycling is also a great way to experience Balkan hospitality and openness firsthand. During my trips to the region, I was often invited to people’s homes for a coffee or given fresh vegetables from their gardens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak trudna jest trasa? Teren i wyzwania<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nawierzchnia<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

About 80 % of the time, you’ll ride on asphalted roads, while 20 % of the route is unpaved. Usually, you can expect good-quality gravel roads that should be passable even on narrower tyres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are some shorter sections where you can expect harsher roads, with larger stones or uneven gravel. They are mostly market (with the “!” symbol) in the official navigation package.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Po\u0142udniowa droga do Theth<\/a> w Albani s\u0142ynie z kiepskiej nawierzchni i nadaje si\u0119 tylko dla do\u015bwiadczonych rowerzyst\u00f3w szukaj\u0105cych wyzwania<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Podjazdy<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Przed wyjazdem na Trans Dinarik\u0119 musisz mie\u0107 \u015bwiadomo\u015b\u0107, \u017ce Ba\u0142kany s\u0105 bardzo <\/strong>g\u00f3rzyste. Przygotuj si\u0119 na du\u017co podjazd\u00f3w, \u015brednio 1000 metr\u00f3w na etap (a czasami nawet dwa razy tyle).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ja zdecydowa\u0142am si\u0119 na przejechanie z Podgoricy do Sarajewa, czyli w kierunku przeciwnym do oryginalnej trasy. W zwi\u0105zku z tym na niekt\u00f3rych etapach musia\u0142am podjecha\u0107 nawet 1800 m na nieca\u0142ych 70 kilometrach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Zanim zdecydujesz si\u0119 na konkretny odcinek Trans Dinariki, sprawd\u017a profil wysoko\u015bciowy danych etap\u00f3w. Niekt\u00f3re kawa\u0142ki trasy, takie jak g\u0142\u00f3wna trasa w S\u0142owenii i wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 etap\u00f3w w Macedonii P\u00f3\u0142nocnej i Kosowie, s\u0105 nieco mniej g\u00f3rzyste i nadadz\u0105 si\u0119 je\u015bli martwisz si\u0119 o swoj\u0105 form\u0119.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cycling Trans Dinarica is a challenge and demands a good fitness level. But don’t be discouraged! If you’re not a great climber, you can always hike a bike on some of the steeper ascents.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pogoda. Kiedy najlepiej wybra\u0107 si\u0119 rowerem na Trans Dinaric\u0119?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Na wypraw\u0119 rowerow\u0105 szlakiem Trans Dinarica najlepiej wybra\u0107 si\u0119 od maja do wrze\u015bnia. Pami\u0119taj jednak, \u017ce pogoda mo\u017ce bardzo si\u0119 r\u00f3\u017cni\u0107 i nawet gdy na wybrze\u017cu Adriatyku panuje upa\u0142, wysoko w g\u00f3rach mo\u017ce zalega\u0107 \u015bnieg.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Parts of the route, especially the lower sections in Albania, Macedonia and Croatia, are better for spring or early autumn cycling. In the Summer, you might face sweltering temperatures that make cycling unbearable. It’s better to stay as high in the mountains as possible at that time. July and August are much better for cycling through Durmitor and the Bosnian mountains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Niezale\u017cnie od tego, kiedy wybierasz si\u0119 na Trans Dinaric\u0119, przygotuj si\u0119 na ka\u017cd\u0105 mo\u017cliw\u0105 pogod\u0119. Spakuj dobr\u0105 kurtk\u0119 przeciwdeszczow\u0105, d\u0142ugie spodnie, krem z filtrem i r\u0119kawiczki (przydadz\u0105 si\u0119 szczeg\u00f3lnie na d\u0142ugich zjazdach w ch\u0142odniejsze dni).  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sprz\u0119t. Jaki rower najlepiej sprawdzi si\u0119 na Trans Dinarice?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jak wspomnia\u0142am wcze\u015bniej, wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 trasy przebiega po drogach asfaltowych. Oznacza to, \u017ce Trans Dinaric\u0119 da si\u0119 przejecha\u0107 prawie ka\u017cdym rowerem. Najlepiej sprawdzi si\u0119 jednak gravel, g\u00f3ral albo rower trekkingowy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

My\u015blisz o przejechaniu fragmentu Trans Dinariki rowerem szosowym? Przy dobrym planowaniu jest to jak najbardziej mo\u017cliwe. Najlepiej wybra\u0107 si\u0119 do Czarnog\u00f3ry i Kosowa, gdzie ponad 90% trasy jest wyasfaltowana.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zdecydowanie mo\u017cliwe jest przejechanie Trans Dinariki z sakwami (ja mia\u0142am ze sob\u0105 pe\u0142en sprz\u0119t campingowy a nawet laptopa). Pami\u0119taj jednak, \u017ce ka\u017cdy nadprogramowy kilogram baga\u017cu b\u0119dzie ci ci\u0105\u017cy\u0142 niemi\u0142osiernie na d\u0142ugich i stromych podjazdach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don’t overpack. The lighter your bike, the more joy you’ll have from roaming across the Dinaric Alps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I am not a minimalist when it comes to packing for a trip, but for Trans Dinarica, I left some of the “extras” at home to keep my bike as light as possible<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Nawigacja<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Trans Dinarica route isn’t signposted or marked. The route only exists in a digital form, and you’ll need a map or the navigation package to navigate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na oficjalnej stronie<\/a> znajdziesz map\u0119 pogl\u0105dow\u0105 ka\u017cdego etapu w formacie PDF.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je\u015bli potrzebujesz \u015bladu trasy w formacie GPS oraz dok\u0142adniejszych informacji na temat trasy, musisz wykupi\u0107 pakiet nawigacyjny dla danego kraju. By go obs\u0142ugiwa\u0107, konieczne b\u0119dzie pobranie bezp\u0142atnej aplikacji Ride with GPS (stamt\u0105d mo\u017cesz tak\u017ce pobra\u0107 plik GPS i wgra\u0107 go na dowolne urz\u0105dzenie lub do dowolnej nawigacji).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The GPS track in the Ride with GPS app is available offline, so you don’t need to worry about internet access.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n
In the navigation package, you’ll find extensive information about the route’s surface, accommodation, restaurants, and shops as well as warnings about challenges along the route<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ile kosztuje pakiet nawigacyjny i czy warto go kupi\u0107?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Kompletny pakiet nawigacyjny dla o\u015bmiu kraj\u00f3w kosztuje 176 euro. Mo\u017cna jednak wykupi\u0107 tak\u017ce pakiety na poszczeg\u00f3lne kraje. Ceny r\u00f3\u017cni\u0105 si\u0119 w zale\u017cno\u015bci od ilo\u015bci etap\u00f3w w danym kraju (np. pakiet dla Kosowa kosztuje tylko 16 euro a dla Albanii a\u017c 46 euro).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It might seem expensive. But remember that, in addition to the convenience of having an accurate GPS track with valuable points of interest and warnings about challenges along the route, you’re also supporting community-based and sustainable tourism in the Balkan region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Moje problemy z aplikacj\u0119 Ride with GPS i z pakietem nawigacyjnym<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Podczas mojej podr\u00f3\u017cy przez Bo\u015bni\u0119 i Czarnog\u00f3r\u0119 do\u015bwiadczy\u0142am pewnych problem\u00f3w technicznych z aplikacj\u0105 Ride with GPS <\/em>app. To access the GPS track, you must scan the QR codes you’ll receive after purchasing the navigation pack. However, the downloaded route disappeared from the app at one point. Luckily, I stored the QR codes on another device and could scan them again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mo\u017cliwe, \u017ce by\u0142am jedyn\u0105 osob\u0105, kt\u00f3rej przydarzy\u0142 si\u0119 ten problem. Jednak na wszelki wypadek miej ze sob\u0105 wydrukowane kody QR lub zapisz je na innym urz\u0105dzeniu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mo\u017cesz te\u017c pobra\u0107 pliki GPS i otworzy\u0107 je w dowolnej aplikacji do nawigacji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gdzie si\u0119 zatrzyma\u0107 na trasie Trans Dinariki?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Camping<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ba\u0142kany i ich dzikie krajobrazy to idealne miejsce na spanie pod namiotem. Wiele z moich najlepszych nocleg\u00f3w na dziko mia\u0142o miejsce w\u0142a\u015bnie w g\u00f3rach Albanii i Macedonii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mo\u017cna przenocowa\u0107 na dziko legalnie<\/a> in Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina (in Bosnia, you need to be aware of the landmines \u2013 usually, the mine-contaminated areas are marked with a red sign with a skull and crossbones). It is technically not allowed in Montenegro and Croatia. Still, you shouldn’t have any problems if you don’t do it on beaches, national parks or private property. The rules are stricter in Slovenia. Remember to leave no trace and be respectful towards nature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"wild<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Na trasie znajdziesz te\u017c sporo camping\u00f3w i p\u00f3l namiotowych, na kt\u00f3rych mo\u017cesz przenocowa\u0107 w rozs\u0105dnej cenie od 5 do 15 euro za osob\u0119.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pensjonaty, hotele i hotele<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Z w\u0142asnego do\u015bwiadczenia mog\u0119 powiedzie\u0107, \u017ce znalezienie noclegu na trasie Trans Dinarica jest raczej bezproblematyczne. Ceny nocleg\u00f3w s\u0105 stosunkowo przyst\u0119pne. Przy dobrym planowaniu zdecydowanie da si\u0119 przejecha\u0107 Trans Dinaric\u0119 bez namiotu i sprz\u0119tu biwakowego.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

W pakiecie nawigacyjnym znajdziesz zazwyczaj kilka obiekt\u00f3w noclegowych na ko\u0144cu ka\u017cdego dziennego etapu, co zdecydowanie u\u0142atwia planowanie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Przez lata moich rowerowych podr\u00f3\u017cy po Ba\u0142kanach nigdy nie rezerwowa\u0142am nocleg\u00f3w z wyprzedzeniem. Zazwyczaj korzystam z booking.com<\/a> .<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ceny hoteli i pensjonat\u00f3w s\u0105 najwy\u017csze w S\u0142owenii i Chorwacji. W Albanii i Macedonii P\u00f3\u0142nocnej mo\u017cna znale\u017a\u0107 miejsce w hostelu nawet za 7 euro. Ceny pokoj\u00f3w prywatnych zaczynaj\u0105 si\u0119 od 15 euro.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jedzenie i dost\u0119p do wody<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jedzenie<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

While some of the sections of Trans Dinarica lead through wild and remote landscapes, you’ll find a grocery store at least every other day (the stores are marked on the official map). You should always have enough snacks to get you through the day, and if you’re wild camping and cooking on your own, resupply whenever you have a chance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you’re not carrying a camping stove, you’ll have many opportunities to try the local Balkan cuisine. Along most Trans Dinarica stages, there are some small restaurants where you can taste local delicacies such as grilled meat, dolma, or bean stew.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Na Ba\u0142kanach je si\u0119 sporo mi\u0119sa, ale jako wegetarianka nie mia\u0142am problemu by znale\u017a\u0107 co\u015b do jedzenia. Wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 restauracji ma w menu jakie\u015b opcje wegetaria\u0144skie, zazwyczaj grillowane warzywa, ser lub w ostatecznym wypadku sa\u0142atk\u0119 szopsk\u0105 z serem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Moj\u0105 ulubion\u0105 przek\u0105sk\u0105 na trasie na Ba\u0142kanach jest burek, czyli wypiek z ciasta filo, zazwyczaj wype\u0142niony mi\u0119sem, serem lub szpinakiem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Najwi\u0119ksz\u0105 pozytywn\u0105 niespodziank\u0105 podczas mojej ostatniej wyprawy rowerowej na Trans Dinarice by\u0142 bogaty wyb\u00f3r da\u0144 wegetaria\u0144skich w Domu Vrela<\/em>, a mountain cabin in Bosnian Tusila. If you’re vegetarian or vegan, you should stop there and taste their amazing vegetarian dolma!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Woda<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Generalnie woda z kranu na Ba\u0142kanach jest zdatna do picia, z wyj\u0105tkiem niekt\u00f3rych miast jak na przyk\u0142ad Tirana (m\u00f3j przyjaciel nabawi\u0142 si\u0119 tam sporych problem\u00f3w \u017co\u0142\u0105dkowych).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the roadside, you’ll often find water fountains where the water is generally safe to drink.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you have a sensitive stomach and don’t want to risk any issues, consider carrying a good water filter, such as Life Straw<\/a> lub Sawyer<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Bezpiecze\u0144stwo<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Bezpiecze\u0144stwo na drogach<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Przez wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 trasy, Trans Dinarica prowadzi spokojnymi bocznymi drogami, z niewielkim ruchem samochodowym. Zdarzaj\u0105 si\u0119 jednak nieco bardziej ruchliwe odcinki (zazwyczaj oznaczone s\u0105 one w oficjalnej nawigacji). Warto na nich zachowa\u0107 szczeg\u00f3ln\u0105 ostro\u017cno\u015b\u0107. W wi\u0119kszo\u015bci ba\u0142ka\u0144skich miast infrastruktura rowerowa jest sk\u0105pa i cz\u0119sto nie ma co liczy\u0107 na drogi rowerowe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Rare sight – designated bicycle lanes in Albania<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cz\u0119sto drogi nie maj\u0105 pobocza a kierowcy wyprzedzaj\u0105 rowerzyst\u00f3w nie dbaj\u0105c o zachowanie odpowiedniej odleg\u0142o\u015bci. Trzymaj si\u0119 co najmniej p\u00f3\u0142 metra od kraw\u0119dzi jezdni, by mie\u0107 w razie czego przestrze\u0144 do zjechania na bok.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don’t forget good bicycle lights and high-visibility clothes. They will increase your safety in bad weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Problemy techniczne i serwis roweru<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Before embarking on the Trans Dinarica route, ensure your bicycle is in top condition. Replace the brake pads (you’ll need them on the long descents) and give it a solid check-up to avoid grappling with mechanical issues somewhere in the middle of nowhere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na trasie Trans Dinariki znajduje si\u0119 kilka sklep\u00f3w rowerowych (ich lokalizacj\u0119 znajdziesz w pakiecie nawigacyjnym), zazwyczaj w wi\u0119kszych miastach. Mo\u017ce jednak si\u0119 zdarzy\u0107, \u017ce najbli\u017cszy z nich b\u0119dzie oddalony o sporo ponad 100 km.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

That’s why you need to bring the essential tools and spare parts. I usually carry:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– a spare inner tube<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– inner tube patches<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– \u0142y\u017cki do opon<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

– a multitoola <\/a>z imbusami i kluczami do wszystkich \u015br\u00f3bek w moim rowerze<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– spare brake pads<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– zip ties and duct tape (a duo that can temporarily fix everything from a broken luggage rack to a saddle).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bezpiecze\u0144stwo osobiste<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Podczas wielu moich samotnych podr\u00f3\u017cy rowerowych po Ba\u0142kanach czu\u0142am si\u0119 zazwyczaj bardzo bezpiecznie. Nale\u017cy jednak pami\u0119ta\u0107, \u017ce niekt\u00f3re fragmenty Trans Dinariki prowadz\u0105 przez niezamieszkane i do\u015b\u0107 dzikie g\u00f3rskie rejony. Niewa\u017cne czy podr\u00f3\u017cujesz solo czy w <\/a>grupie, pami\u0119taj o podstawowych zasadach bezpiecze\u0144stwa<\/span>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Keep your phone charged. Ensure your mobile phone has enough battery to call for help if you encounter problems. Get a local SIM card or an eSIM card (I used Airalo last time. You can also check out Yesim’s Balkan package<\/a>). Dzi\u0119ki temu b\u0119dziesz mie\u0107 dost\u0119p do internetu, a po powrocie nie zaskoczy ci\u0119 gigantyczny rachunek za roaming. Pami\u0119taj jednak, \u017ce w niekt\u00f3rych miejscach mo\u017ce nie by\u0107 zasi\u0119gu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Check the weather, especially before the most mountainous stages. Heavy rain combined with low temperatures high in the mountains can be really punishing. You also want to avoid being caught by thunderstorms or wind in a place where there is nowhere to hide. Be prepared to adjust your plans in case of extreme weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Bring solid waterproof clothing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Remember to drink enough water and electrolytes and, in case of the heat, hit the trail early in the morning to avoid cycling when the sun is burning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wild animals and dogs<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Alpy Dynarskie s\u0105 domem wielu gatunk\u00f3w dzikich zwierz\u0105t. Mi osobi\u015bcie nigdy nie zdarzy\u0142o si\u0119 tam jednak spotka\u0107 nied\u017awiedzi czy wilk\u00f3w.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na wypadek spotkania z nied\u017awiedziem, warto jednak wiedzie\u0107 jak si\u0119 zachowa\u0107. Je\u015bli b\u0119dziesz na trasie wieczorem, \u015bpiew lub rozmowa pomo\u017ce odstraszy\u0107 zwierz\u0119ta, kt\u00f3re zazwyczaj zachowuj\u0105 dystans od cz\u0142owieka. Je\u015bli nocujesz pod namiotem, trzymaj jedzenie poza nim (najlepiej powie\u015b torb\u0119 z prowiantem gdzie\u015b na drzewie).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you meet a bear, don’t run. Slowly back off while remaining as calm as possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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W Albanii i Macedonii spotka\u0107 mo\u017cna wiele gatunk\u00f3w zwierz\u0105t, takich jak \u017c\u00f3\u0142wie czy flamingi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Du\u017co bardziej prawdopodobne od spotkania z nied\u017awiedziem jest spotkanie bezpa\u0144skich czy pasterskich ps\u00f3w. Te bezpa\u0144skie s\u0105 zazwyczaj bardzo przyjazne, ale psy pasterskie chroni\u0105c swojego terytorium i zwierz\u0105t mog\u0105 ruszy\u0107 za tob\u0105 w pogo\u0144. W takim wypadku zazwyczaj zwalniam, a czasem nawet zsiadam z roweru. Ustawiam si\u0119 tak, by rower by\u0142 pomi\u0119dzy mn\u0105 a psem i powoli maszeruj\u0119 przed siebie, spokojnie ale stanowczo m\u00f3wi\u0105c do psa. Je\u015bli pies robi si\u0119 agresywny, pry\u015bnij mu w twarz wod\u0105 lub rzu\u0107 kamieniem w jego kierunku (ale nie prosto w niego).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 ba\u0142ka\u0144skich bezdomnych ps\u00f3w jest bardzo przyjazna i cz\u0119sto poprawiaj\u0105 mi one humor podczas d\u0142ugich dni na rowerze<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Wi\u0119cej informacji na temat zwierz\u0105t na Trans Dinarice znajdziesz tutaj.<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Logistyka<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Przej\u015bcia graniczne na trasie Trans Dinarica<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Trans Dinarica przebiega przez osiem kraj\u00f3w. Przekraczanie ich granic jest z regu\u0142y bezproblemowe - z rowerem ustawiasz si\u0119 w tej samej kolejce do kontroli paszportowej co samochody. S\u0142owenia i Chorwacja nale\u017c\u0105 do strefy Schengen, wi\u0119c pomi\u0119dzy tymi pa\u0144stwami mo\u017cesz przekroczy\u0107 granic\u0119 bez kontroli.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you’re a citizen of an EU country, you can enter all Trans Dinarica countries with a national ID.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you’re a third-country national, check if you need a visa for any of the countries along the route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Transport publiczny<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Je\u015bli chcesz lub musisz omin\u0105\u0107 kawa\u0142ek trasy i skorzysta\u0107 z transportu publicznego, przeczytaj poni\u017csze informacje na temat poci\u0105g\u00f3w i autobus\u00f3w w krajach Trans Dinariki.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Albania<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Albania’s railway network is outdated, with limited trains between cities like Tirana, Elbasan, and Durres on weekends. There are some bus connections between major cities, and taking your bike on a bus should be easy as long as there is space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wi\u0119cej informacji znajdziesz tutaj<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bo\u015bnia i Hercegowina<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The railway system here is sparse, with routes like Sarajevo\u2013Banja Luka or Sarajevo\u2013Mostar. Taking a bicycle often depends on the conductor’s discretion. You may not always get lucky, especially if the train is full.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another option is buses, where you have to rely on the driver’s goodwill and available space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wi\u0119cej informacji znajdziesz tutaj<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chorwacja<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Mo\u017cesz przewie\u017a\u0107 rower poci\u0105gami w Chorwacji<\/a> if your train has a special coach for bicycles. Croatian railways charge 1,99 euros for taking your bike. You can buy the ticket on a train or at the train station; it’s not possible to buy a bicycle ticket online.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I once took a train from Zagreb to Slavonski Brod. Theoretically, this train wasn’t suitable for bicycles, but nobody from the staff had any problems with it. It was hard to carry my bike up the narrow stairs, and the trip wasn’t super comfortable, as I had to sit with my bike in the corridor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wi\u0119cej informacji znajdziesz tutaj<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kosowo<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Kolej w Kosowie nie nale\u017cy do najpr\u0119\u017cniej dzia\u0142aj\u0105cych. Rozk\u0142ady cz\u0119sto ulegaj\u0105 zmianie. Przygotuj si\u0119 wi\u0119c na spor\u0105 doz\u0119 nieprzewidywalno\u015bci je\u015bli zamierzasz korzysta\u0107 w tym kraju z poci\u0105g\u00f3w lub autobus\u00f3w.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Czarnog\u00f3ra<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Przew\u00f3z rower\u00f3w jest dozwolony w wi\u0119kszo\u015bci poci\u0105g\u00f3w w Czarnog\u00f3rze. Bilet na rower kosztuje 4 euro<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bilety nie s\u0105 dost\u0119pne online, mo\u017cna je naby\u0107 tylko w kasach na dworcu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rozk\u0142ad znajdziesz na Montenegrin Railways’ website.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macedonia P\u00f3\u0142nocna<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The policy of The Macedonian Railways regarding bicycles on trains is quite vague, and it’s hard to find any specific information about it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

According to Rante, a cycling guide from Skopje, bicycles can only be taken on trains with designated bicycle cars, which are rare. That means you shouldn’t have too high hopes about bringing your bicycle on a train in North Macedonia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In July 2024, my reader Bozhidar informed me that the railway was in bad shape but that taking a bike on a train was still possible if the conductor was okay with it. It’s free of charge, but you’ll spend your journey holding your bicycle as there is no dedicated space for bicycles on most old trains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Serbia<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

G\u0142\u00f3wnym przewo\u017anikiem w Serbii s\u0105 Koleje Serbskie<\/a>. Wiele poci\u0105g\u00f3w dopuszcza przew\u00f3z rower\u00f3w<\/a>, jednak zazwyczaj maj\u0105 one miejsce tylko na dwa rowery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Op\u0142ata za rower wynosi 100 dinar\u00f3w (oko\u0142o 4 z\u0142ote). Sprzeda\u017c online nie jest prowadzona. Po\u0142\u0105czenia mo\u017cesz znale\u017a\u0107 na stronie internetowej<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

S\u0142owenia<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Slovenia has a more developed system where bicycles are allowed on many trains (marked with a bicycle icon in the timetable). A bicycle space costs 1,5 euros. However, to the best of my knowledge, it isn’t possible to book it online.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wi\u0119cej informacji znajdziesz tutaj<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Telefon i internet<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

As a solo traveller, I always ensure I have a local SIM card or an eSIM card, as having a mobile connection is essential for my safety. Still, you need to be prepared that you won’t have cellphone reception in some of the most remote corners of the route (it’s rare but can happen). Always have your maps downloaded offline.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Suppose your Trans Dinarica adventure is limited to one country. In that case, you will be best off buying a physical local SIM card (if you have an EU SIM card and travel in Slovenia and Croatia, you won’t need one, as you can roam like at home<\/em>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

. W Albanii, Czarnog\u00f3rze i Bo\u015bni, mo\u017cesz naby\u0107 lokaln\u0105 kart\u0119 SIM z ogromnym pakietem danych za oko\u0142o 15 euro.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wi\u0119cej informacji znajdziesz w moich rowerowych przewodnikach<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Je\u015bli nie chce ci si\u0119 bawi\u0107 z instalacj\u0105 fizycznej karty SIM, zdecyduj si\u0119 na kart\u0119 eSIM. Wystarczy pobra\u0107 aplikacj\u0119, wykupi\u0107 pakiet danych i aktywowa\u0107 kart\u0119 przed wyjazdem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Operator Yesim ma w swojej ofercie specjalny Pakiet Ba\u0142ka\u0144ski<\/a>. You’ll pay just 15 euros for 30 days (with 5 GB of data) and avoid having to change the SIM card every time you cross the border.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can now get 20% off on your Yesim e-SIM card<\/a> using the discount code FALLY20<\/strong> at checkout!<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jakie etapy Trans Dinariki wybra\u0107, je\u015bli chc\u0119 zrobi\u0107 p\u0119tl\u0119?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Je\u015bli chcesz, by pocz\u0105tek i koniec twojej trasy znajdowa\u0142 si\u0119 w tym samym miejscu (bo, na przyk\u0142ad, przyjecha\u0142e\u015b na Ba\u0142kany samochodem), mo\u017cesz wybra\u0107 jedn\u0105 z poni\u017cszych opcji na Trans Dinarice:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. P\u0119tla S\u0142owe\u0144ska: Tolmin \u2013 Ilirska Bistrica<\/a>: 1 kraj, 6 etap\u00f3w, 289 km<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2. P\u0119tla Chorwacka: Senj \u2013 Zrmanja<\/a>: 1 kraj, 7 etap\u00f3w, 370 km<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3. P\u0119tla po Bo\u015bni i Hercegowinie: Livno \u2013 Sarajewo<\/a>: 1 kraj, 11 etap\u00f3w, 540 km<\/p>\n\n\n\n

4. P\u0119tla przez cztery kraje: Bo\u015bnia i Hercegowina, Czarnog\u00f3ra, Kosowo, Serbia<\/a>: 4 kraje, 23 etapy, 1092 km<\/p>\n\n\n\n

5. P\u0119tla po G\u00f3rach Przekl\u0119tych: Czarnog\u00f3ra i Albania<\/a>: 2 kraje, 9 etap\u00f3w, 422 km<\/p>\n\n\n\n

6. P\u0119tla szlakiem jezior: Albania i Macedonia P\u00f3\u0142nocna<\/a>: 2 countries, 15 stages, 832 km<\/p>\n\n\n\n

7. P\u0119tla G\u00f3r Dynarskich i Szar: Albania, Macedonia P\u00f3\u0142nocna, Kosowo<\/a>: 3 kraje, 19 etap\u00f3w, 1036 km<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ile czasu zajmuje przejechanie Trans Dinariki?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

W Trans Dinarice najlepsze jest to, \u017ce mo\u017cesz wybra\u0107 jeden z wielu sugerowanych plan\u00f3w podr\u00f3\u017cy (lub nawet stworzy\u0107 sw\u00f3j w\u0142asny), w zale\u017cno\u015bci od tego, ile masz czasu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ca\u0142kowity dystans wszystkich etap\u00f3w wynosi 5500 kilometr\u00f3w, \u0142\u0105cznie z trasami alternatywnymi. Na przejechanie Trans Dinaric\u0105 przez wszystkie osiem kraj\u00f3w potrzebujesz co najmniej miesi\u0105ca.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The stages suggested in the itineraries are of reasonable length (between 30 and 80 km), but remember that you’ll regularly have to climb about 1000 m per day (sometimes much more).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

W czasie mojej podr\u00f3\u017cy z Podgoricy do Sarajewa trzyma\u0142am si\u0119 dziennych dystans\u00f3w proponowanych przez tw\u00f3rc\u00f3w trasy. Musia\u0142am si\u0119 jednak zmierzy\u0107 z wi\u0119kszymi podjazdami, ze wzgl\u0119du na to, \u017ce jecha\u0142am pod pr\u0105d w stosunku do oryginalnej trasy. Mimo to mia\u0142am zazwyczaj dosy\u0107 czasu na zdj\u0119cia, jedzenie, rozmowy z miejscowymi, czy po prostu na odpoczynek na \u0142onie natury.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Everyone’s pace is different, so I recommend adding extra days for rest or exploration. I also like flexibility in case of bad weather and external circumstances.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pieni\u0105dze<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Na Trans Dinarice mo\u017cna znale\u017a\u0107 zakwaterowanie i wy\u017cywienie w przyst\u0119pnych cenach. Najdro\u017cej jest generalnie w S\u0142owenii i Chorwacji, najtaniej w Albanii i Macedonii P\u00f3\u0142nocnej.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since the route leads through some remote areas, don’t expect card payments to always be accepted. Check where you can find ATMs ahead of time, as there are not always many of them along the route. I made a mistake and didn’t do that after entering Bosnia. I ended up cycling all the way from the Montenegrin border to Sarajevo with just a 100 euros bill in my pocket, unable to find any ATM with the Bosnian Mark.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wiele bankomat\u00f3w pobiera op\u0142at\u0119 w wysoko\u015bci od 3 do 6 euro za pobranie got\u00f3wki zagraniczn\u0105 kart\u0105.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Waluty na trasie Trans Dinarica:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Czarnog\u00f3ra, Kosowo, Chorwacja, S\u0142owenia - Euro<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bo\u015bnia i Hercegowina - Marka Bo\u015bniacka (Euro jest cz\u0119sto akceptowane)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Serbia - Dinar<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Albania - Lek<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macedonia P\u00f3\u0142nocna - Denar<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Najwa\u017cniejsze wskaz\u00f3wki na Trans Dinaric\u0119<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

1. Don’t overpack. Keep your luggage as light as possible. Every kilogram will weigh you down on the climbs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2. Przygotuj si\u0119 na ka\u017cd\u0105 mo\u017cliw\u0105 pogod\u0119. Trans Dinarica przebiega przez r\u00f3\u017cnorakie krajobrazy, od poziomu morza do prawie 2000 metr\u00f3w, co oznacza, \u017ce temperatura i pogoda mog\u0105 si\u0119 gwa\u0142townie zmieni\u0107 na odcinku zaledwie kilku kilometr\u00f3w. Koniecznie we\u017a dobr\u0105 kurtk\u0119 przeciwdeszczow\u0105, ciep\u0142e ciuchy i krem z filtrem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3. Je\u015bli chcesz unikn\u0105\u0107 dodatkowych przewy\u017csze\u0144, trzymaj si\u0119 oryginalnego kierunku trasy. W moim wypadku jazda w odwr\u00f3conym kierunku z Podgoricy do Sarajewa oznacza\u0142a, \u017ce w niekt\u00f3re dni musia\u0142am podjecha\u0107 nawet 1800 metr\u00f3w.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

4. Naucz si\u0119 podstawowych zwrot\u00f3w po serbsko-chorwacku. Wi\u0119kszo\u015b\u0107 m\u0142odych ludzi na Ba\u0142kanach m\u00f3wi dobrze po angielsku, ale starsi najcz\u0119\u015bciej znaj\u0105 co najwy\u017cej niemiecki. Poza tym, znajomo\u015b\u0107 kilku podstawowych fraz pomo\u017ce ci nawi\u0105za\u0107 kontakt z miejscowymi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Kiedy biwakowa\u0142am przy ma\u0142ej cerkwi w g\u00f3rach Macedonia P\u00f3\u0142nocna<\/a>, zosta\u0142am zaproszona przez tych przemi\u0142ych ludzi na kaw\u0119 i \u015bniadanie.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Szukasz informacji na temat podr\u00f3\u017cy rowerowych po Ba\u0142kanach? Przeczytaj moje pozosta\u0142e artyku\u0142y:<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n\t\t\t

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\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"hiking\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tHiking Via Dinarica Kosovo – A magical trail in the Accursed Mountains<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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Until recently, I knew very little about Kosovo. I had travelled through much of the…\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tDowiedz si\u0119 wi\u0119cej<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tNajlepsze szlaki rowerowe na wypraw\u0119 w 2025 roku<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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Embarking on a long-distance cycling adventure is one of the best ways to explore the…\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tDowiedz si\u0119 wi\u0119cej<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Bike\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tCycling in Bosnia and Herzegovina – Practical Bike Touring Guide<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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Cycling in Bosnia and Herzegovina was my favourite part of the three-month-long solo trip around…\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tDowiedz si\u0119 wi\u0119cej<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"A\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tCzarnog\u00f3ra rowerem - praktyczny przewodnik<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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When I first came to Montenegro for a cycling holiday 12 years ago, I thought…\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tDowiedz si\u0119 wi\u0119cej<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tDolina Theth - Najpi\u0119kniejsza trasa na rower w Albanii<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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While the Alpe Adria and other scenic cycling routes in the Alps attract thousands of…\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tDowiedz si\u0119 wi\u0119cej<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"albanian\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tThe Journey through History – Visiting Communist Sites in Albania<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t
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During the brutal communist regime of Enver Hoxha, Albania was the most isolated and inaccessible…\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\tDowiedz si\u0119 wi\u0119cej<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Trans Dinarica is the first cycle route covering eight Balkan countries, stretching over 5,500 km through Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo, Montenegro, North Macedonia, and Albania. 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