{"id":13257,"date":"2022-09-30T13:15:49","date_gmt":"2022-09-30T11:15:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/wobblyride.com\/?p=13257"},"modified":"2024-05-30T09:51:11","modified_gmt":"2024-05-30T07:51:11","slug":"merry-cemetery-in-sapanta-romania","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wobblyride.com\/pl\/2022\/09\/30\/merry-cemetery-in-sapanta-romania\/","title":{"rendered":"Merry Cemetery – a graveyard with no taboos"},"content":{"rendered":"

You don’t talk ill about the dead.<\/em> The authors of the colourful graves in Romanian S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba disregard this rule. With dark humour and incredible directness, they disclose people’s flaws and describe how they died. Welcome to the Merry Cemetery – a graveyard with no taboos, where death is a topic to laugh at.  <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Merry Cemetery – one of the most unusual cemeteries in the world<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Ioan Toaderu loved horses. 
One more thing he loved very much. 
To sit at a table in a bar. 
Next to someone else\u2019s wife.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

That’s a poem on one of 800 graves. The forest of blue wooden crosses is impressive. It’s a cemetery like no other in the world. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The necropolis attracts over 200 000 tourists to S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba every year, making it one of the most popular tourist attractions in Romania.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"merry<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Celebrate life instead of grieving the death<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The whole thing started in 1935 when the local artist Stan Ioan P\u0103tra\u015f carved the first wooden cross and decided to add a humorous inscription. He believed that celebrating life was more important than grieving death. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some researchers say his inspiration was the Dacian culture and their attitude to death. To me, the scenes from daily life and pictures reflecting their occupation resembled a bit the Jewish cemeteries, where certain symbols disclosed the deceased public function. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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While the Jewish tombstones are more symbolic (you knew someone was a rabbi if their hands joined in supplication on his grave), in the Merry Cemetery things are rather straightforward. The pictures show a farmer next to his tractor, a policeman in a uniform, and an electrician with a wire in his hands and sockets in the back. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The pictures of the cemetery in S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba seem naive and unambiguous, yet there is a dose of symbolism in them. The omnipresent blue also called S\u0103p\u00e2n\u0163a blue, represented hope and freedom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"merry<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Red was, of course, a sign of passion, green meant life, and yellow – fertility. If you spot a blackbird on one of the crosses, you can be sure that this person died a tragic, or even suspicious, death. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Merry Cemetery is full of funny poems, ironically illustrating people\u00bbs lives, habits and interpersonal relationships. One is particularly beloved by the visitors: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Underneath this heavy cross
Lies my mother-in-law poor\u2026 
Try not to wake her up
For if she comes back home
She\u2019ll bite my head off.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

The local artist finds a way to laugh almost at everything. But some of the inscriptions are full of anger, like the one of this 3-years-old girl hit by a taxi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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May you burn in hell <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taxi driver from Sibiu! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In all of Romania, <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You could find no other place <\/p>\n\n\n\n

But here, near our house <\/p>\n\n\n\n

To stop and hit me <\/p>\n\n\n\n

And bring grief to my parents. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For as long as they live <\/p>\n\n\n\n

They will weep for me.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>

\"merry<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Or a shepherd shot by a Hungarian.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I looked after my sheep 
Bad Hungarian came 
And shot me in the head 
Cut off my head from the body 
And buried me like that 
May he is damned forever.
Only the truth matters<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

It’s striking how honest some of the inscriptions are. While most of the world doesn’t speak ill of the dead, in S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba they don’t beat around the bush.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pop Grigore is my name 
I loved my tractor the most And drowned my sorrows in the bottle. 
All my life I was miserable and sad 
Because my father left me when I was just a child. 
Maybe this was my fate 
To die young.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

And surprisingly, the locals are fine with that. Dumitru Pop, who is now carving the crosses after his master Stan Ioan P\u0103tra\u015f passed away, says that the families want the epitaphs to represent real life<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

While the inscriptions on most cemeteries express the grief and sadness of those left behind, in S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba the deceased has the voice. The poems are in the first person and the present tense. According to\u00a0Peter Kayafas<\/a>, the author of the book The Merry Cemetery of S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba, this gives a feeling that their existence continues, interrupted but not stopped by death. It’s a way to keep them alive. Maybe that’s why their relatives don’t care if the poems mention alcoholism or the miserable life of the deceased. In the end, they were accepted and loved with all their flaws.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Practical information<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Opening hours and admission fee<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The Merry Cemetery is open every day from 8.00 to 18.00. The entry ticket costs 5 lei (about 1 euro). If you plan to visit during the summer, be there early to escape the crowds!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jak dojecha\u0107?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Samochodem<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Tucked into a remote valley with the Tisa River and the Ukrainian border on one side and the wild Maramures Mountains on the other, there is only one road leading to S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba. From Sighetu Marma\u021biei, it takes about 20-25 minutes. The drive from Cluj-Napoca to S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba is scenic but time-consuming, with plenty of narrow and curvy mountain roads. Although it\u00bbs only 200 km, reserve ca. 4 hours for it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Autobusem<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

If you don’t have a car, there is a bus to S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba from Sighetu Marmatiei. The buses run only a few times a day. You can check the timetable\u00a0tutaj<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A popular transportation method among locals and tourists is hitchhiking, so if you miss a bus, just put your thumb out and wait until someone stops. It’s common to offer the driver some money for the ride (the amount you would pay for the bus ticket should be fine). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What to do in S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

See more art of Stan Ioan P\u0103tra\u015fin his house<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The Merry Cemetery is the most famous attraction in the village, but there are a few other places worth visiting. If you liked Stan Ioan P\u0103tra\u015f’s art and want to see more of it, visit his colourful house. There, you will find, for example, a portrait of the Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceau\u0219escu that had to be hidden until the fall of the communist regime and many excellent pieces of local art.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fot. Andrei Stroe, CC BY-SA 3.0 https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/3.0<\/a>, via Wikimedia Commons<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n

Visit the Sapanta Monastery<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Another worth-visiting sight in S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba is the monastery (M\u0103n\u0103stirea S\u0103p\u00e2n\u0163a-Peri). The beautiful wooden church is probably the tallest wooden building in Europe, with the tower rising to 75 metres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Learn about  local crafts <\/a><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Sapanta can be called a cradle of traditional art. You will find here weavers, hatters and sculptors who still use the same methods as their forefathers. Unfortunately, the young generation is not too keen to learn the old techniques, so it might be the last chance to see them before they diminish. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where to stay in S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Campingi<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

There are two campsites in S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba, located ca. 3 km from the centre of the village. I stayed at Camping Poieni and paid 30 lei per night (for one person with a tent and a car). The toilets are new and clean. There are wooden shelters where you can cook your meal or charge your phone (there are sockets). There is also a restaurant and a charming mountain stream that gives you a nice white noise (on the downside, there is also some traffic noise coming from the road). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Guest houses<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Since S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba became a popular tourist destination, many people started offering rooms for tourists. You can find guest houses<\/a> for 25-60 euros per night for two. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

If you are interested in other things to do in Maramures, check out my post about the traditional village of Breb<\/a>.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

You don’t talk ill about the dead. The authors of the colourful graves in Romanian S\u0103p\u00e2n\u021ba disregard this rule. With dark humour and incredible directness, they disclose people’s flaws and describe how they died. Welcome to the Merry Cemetery – a graveyard with no taboos, where death is a topic […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13276,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,1551,19,1753],"tags":[1591,1587,1581,1584,1555,1563,1582,1583,1552,1586,1580,1589,1588,1590],"class_list":["post-13257","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-english","category-romania","category-stories-from-the-road","category-travel-guides","tag-activities-in-romania","tag-carpathian-mountains","tag-culture","tag-europe","tag-maramures","tag-merry-cemetery","tag-mountains","tag-roadtrip","tag-romania","tag-sapanta","tag-sightseeing","tag-things-to-do-in-romania","tag-travel-guides","tag-visit-romania"],"yoast_head":"\nMerry Cemetery - a graveyard with no taboos - Wobbly Ride<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The Merry Cemetery in Romanian Sapanta is different than all the cemeteries you know. 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