cycling in Latvia

Cycling in Latvia. Practical bike touring guide

I always thought cycling in Latvia would be kinda boring. I assumed the landscapes would be very similar to what I was used to in northern Poland: many forests and lakes and a lovely Baltic coast with sandy beaches. But I was proven wrong.

After a couple of days of riding the extremely flat Estonian coast, I was astonished by how diverse the landscape was when I entered Latvia. The Gauja National Park, with sandstone outcrops and a windy river, was an oasis of peace. People were kind, and the food was delicious. If not for mosquitoes, cycling in Latvia was a summer idyll.

Cycling in Latvia – who is it for?

Located on the peripheries of Europe, Latvia is often overlooked by tourists. However, it can be a perfect cycling destination regardless of your fitness level, experience, and interests.

Most of the cycle routes in Latvia are fairly flat, but even mountain biking enthusiasts and more adventurous bikepackers will find some more challenging and wild trails.

cycling in Latvia

Latvia is a great place for nature lovers who can visit one of its four national parks and enjoy quiet camping in the endless forests. It won’t disappoint history enthusiasts, especially those interested in the Soviet heritage.

While the heat exhausts cycling in the more southern parts of Europe in the summer, Latvia’s milder climate makes it a perfect place for cycling in July and August. You won’t meet crowds of tourists either.

The best cycling routes in Latvia

Eurovelo routes in Latvia

Eurovelo 10 (Baltic Sea Cycle Route)

One of Latvia’s most popular cycling routes is the Baltic Sea Cycle Route (Eurovelo 10). The route runs along the picturesque Gulf of Riga and the scenic Courland coast. This route is a perfect summer adventure, combining cycling with relaxing on wide, sandy beaches.

With minimal elevation, the Baltic Sea Cycle Route suits all cyclists, regardless of their fitness level.

Parts of this route are still under development; sometimes, you’ll have to ride on busy roads.

Length: 680 km

Eurovelo 13 (Iron Curtain Trail)

Another Eurovelo route in Latvia is the Iron Curtain Trail (EV 13). However, it overlaps significantly with the Baltic Sea Cycle Route. Both of them pass through Riga and the popular coastal resort Jurmala. It is a perfect route for modern history enthusiasts who will have a chance to see some outstanding examples of Soviet military heritage, such as Karosta Military Prison or a Soviet military base in Mežgarciems.

Interestingly, in its southern part, EuroVelo 13 hugs the coast tighter than the Baltic Sea Route, avoiding some detours, for example, in Kuldīga.

Length: 550 km

Eurovelo 11 (East Europe Route)

Cycling in Latvia doesn’t necessarily mean following the coast. To explore the country’s diverse landscapes, you should choose Eurovelo 11, which goes deeper into the Latvian interior.

You’ll have a chance to visit the beautiful historic towns of Sigulda and Cesis, which have charming old architecture. Experience peaceful nature in the Gauja National Park and swim in one of the hundreds of lakes in the Latgale region.

Length: 660 km

Gauja National Park

After spending a few days on the flat Estonian coast, I longed for more diverse landscapes and hills. With the satellite view on, I opened Google Maps and browsed the Baltic states for inspiration.

I dropped the pin somewhere in the Gauja National Park, and I knew this was the best destination for the rest of my journey. The next day, I hopped on a train to the border town of Valga and continued south from there.

cycling in Gauja National Park

The Gauja National Park is Latvia’s largest and oldest national park, surrounding the River Gauja. With sandstone cliffs, mysterious caves, and dense green forests, it is a fantastic playground for cyclists who want to get off the beaten track and connect with nature.

There are also many adorable hiking trails with wooden footbridges through the marshes. And if you’re into other sports, try kayaking on the Gauja River.

The route below is the exact route I took. Prepare for some narrow dirt tracks and a great deal of climbing. I especially loved the long climb to Ziediņkalns, a fantastic viewpoint in Sigulda.

Length: 186 km

Green railways

Green railways are cycling routes established on former railway lines. In Latvia, they often pass through tranquil forests and stunning landscapes. They primarily run on gravel roads, and their surface could be better, but you can enjoy safe and quiet cycling far from cars. The routes are signposted.

Tour de LatEst

When I entered Latvia from Estonia in Valka, I noticed information boards with a map of the Tour de LatEst route. They instantly sparked my attention, and after returning home, I researched this 1075 km route connecting Latvia with Estonia, checking if it would be an exciting alternative for my next bike tour in the Baltics.

Unfortunately, the project’s official website looks outdated, and the GPX files and PDF maps links don’t work.

I cycled parts of this route in northern Latvia and wasn’t impressed. I was riding on busy main roads that were neither safe nor exciting.

From what I saw on mapy.cz, the route is also fragmented, and there are sections where you need to find your own way to reach the next stage.

Length: 1075 km

Cycling in Latvia – Practical information

How to get to Latvia with your bike?

By bus

Several bus companies operate routes between Latvia and other European countries. With Lux Express, you can travel to Latvia’s capital, Riga, from Warsaw, St. Petersburg, Tallinn, Vilnius, and a few other cities (find all routes here). The coaches are comfortable, and you can take your bicycle free of charge (it will travel in the luggage compartment, and there’s no need to disassemble it).

Another carrier is Flixbus. It has direct connections to Riga from Warsaw, Tallinn, and Vilnius. From November 1st to February 28th, buses do not have bicycle racks.

I travelled with Lux Express and Flixbus, and both were fine. However, Lux Express was a little faster and way more comfortable.

By train

There is a direct train from Vilnius to Riga, and bicycles are allowed on board. The route is very popular in the summer, so I recommend an early reservation.

Currently, there is no direct connection between Riga and Tallinn. Still, you can get a train from Tallinn to Valga, which is right on the border with Latvia, and start biking from there. I did it last summer, and it was a very convenient way to get to Latvia.

I look forward to the new Rail Baltica project, which should be ready in a couple of years and will provide a fast and convenient train connection between all the Baltic states and Warsaw.

By plane

The airport in Riga has direct connections with most major European cities.

If you fly with the national Latvian airline Air Baltic, you might skip packing your bicycle in a box. Depending on the airport, sometimes it’s enough to deflate the tyres, turn the handlebar and remove the pedals. The fee for bicycle transportation with AirBaltic is 44,99 euros.

Bicycle rental in Latvia

Riga Bicycle offers trekking bikes for 10 euros/day (with discounts for longer rental).

Bike Tours Riga has similar prices. They also have electric bikes with power assist for up to 85 km.

If you prefer a mountain bike, you can rent one for 15 euros per day at Gandrs Rent.

Terrain

With its highest point (Gaizinkalns Hill) only 311,5 metres above sea level, Latvia is one of the flattest countries in Europe, making it a perfect cycling destination for beginners.

If you don’t like climbs, you’ll be pleased cycling along the Latvian coast.

Cyclists looking for more varied terrain should head inland, where they will find dense forests, wild wetlands, and even some decent climbs, especially in areas such as the Vidzeme Upland or the Gauja National Park.

Bike lanes, traffic and safety

While Latvia is a quickly developing cycling destination, the infrastructure still needs to be improved. You’ll find separate bicycle lanes in larger cities, such as Riga and Sigulda. Outside of them, you’ll often have to share the road with other traffic participants.

The roads often have no shoulder, and drivers like to speed. Still, luckily, there are many secondary roads with little motorised traffic.

Many bicycle routes also lead through forest dirt roads where you might need wider tyres.

Taking a bicycle on a train in Latvia

You can take your bicycle on most trains in Latvia. Many have a special wagon with bike holders, but even the trains without them accept bicycles (up to 5 bikes per wagon).

You must buy a baggage ticket for your bicycle. You can easily do it online. Find your connection, click buy, and choose passenger and baggage tickets. They are pretty affordable – usually, you won’t spend more than 2 euros.

You can read more about the conditions for bringing a bicycle on Latvian trains here.

When is the best time to cycle in Latvia?

The best time for a bicycle tour in Latvia is between May and October. Summers are mostly sunny with occasional heavy rains and thunderstorms, especially in the afternoon. The perfect time to cycle in Latvia is June and July when the days are long, and you can be out on a bike until 10 p.m.

In Autumn, you’ll be awestruck by the blaze of colours, with the leaves turning red, orange, and yellow. However, the temperatures can drop significantly, especially at night, so bring a warm sleeping bag if you’re camping.

Latvia is pretty far up north, and winters can be very snowy and cold.

Camping

The Forest Law in Latvia states that everybody has the right to stay and move freely in the state and municipal forest unless otherwise specified in the laws and regulations. That means wild camping in Latvia is legal, except for private property and nature protection areas (marked with signs with an oak leaf).

Across the country, there are plenty of recreation areas where you can pitch your tent for free. These areas have pit toilets, tables, and sometimes a shelter.

You can find them in the Dabas Turisms app:

You will also easily find affordable campsites with access to showers and toilets. For example, in the Gauja National Park, I stayed at camping Zagarkaln and paid just 8 euros per night.

I usually use Park4night and iOverlander apps to find a place to camp.

Accommodation

The prices for hotels and guesthouses in Latvia are lower than in Western Europe. A budget room for two people costs 30-40 euros.

There are also plenty of hostels in Riga, with prices for a dorm bed starting at 13 euros.

Water and food

Tap water in Latvia is safe to drink.

The distances between towns and villages are never very long, so you don’t have to carry an extra food and water supply. You’ll be able to restock at grocery stores frequently. Most shops are open on Sundays.

If you’re looking for a perfect local snack for a long day on a bike, you should try Pīrāgi – a savoury pastry usually filled with bacon.

Latvian cuisine offers plenty of tasty vegetarian options, such as Kartupeļu pankūkas (potato pancakes) or Aukstā Zupa (cold beet soup—perfect for a hot summer day!).

Money

The currency in Latvia is the euro. Many restaurants and shops accept card payments, and the ATM network is pretty dense. However, you should still carry some cash, especially to pay for campsites and small guesthouses.

Language

Latvian is the official language. English is widely spoken among the younger generation but not among the older people. Knowing some Russian will be very handy, as most of the people who grew up during the Soviet era spoke it.

Resources

Map of cycle routes in Latvia (including routes for commuting, touring and sport cycling)

Need travel insurance for your trip to Latvia? Check out Safety Wing!

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