Breb, Romania – a village where time slows down

Most people visit the Maramures region in the north of Romania for the Merry Cemetery. The vibrant and joyful necropolis is in fact one-of-a-kind, but it’s not the only special place in the area. The tiny village of Breb is a peaceful retreat where you can discover the vibrant traditions of Maramures.

After many kilometres of a windy, narrow road from Cluj, I took a sharp turn and drove through a carved wooden gate. Soon the asphalt disappeared. I looked after the signposts to Babou. “Follow our wooden signs and do not use your GPS system, which will lead you to impassable roads and fields”, warned the owner on his website.

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The uneven dirt roads climbing the hill forced me to slow down, both physically and mentally. I felt like time didn’t matter anymore.

Breb was one of these places where you feel this holiday at grandma in the countryside vibe. The chickens clucked and the wooden decorations on the walls made a knocking noise battered by the gusty wind. The mountains were merging with the murky clouds. The storm was coming.

-Do you need help? – asked Bram, the owner of the campsite and hostel, seeing me fighting with the fluttering canvas of my tent.

He overtook this place from other Dutchies, Eveline and Matthijs, who fell in love with this remote village in the Romanian mountains. In 2011, they bought the property from an old lady who couldn’t take care of the farm any longer after her husband passed away. But the Romanian grandma still stays in the summer house.

The owners of Babou decided to leave the place as close to the original state as possible. They wanted their guests to feel the real atmosphere of Breb.

Eveline refreshed the colours on the walls, making sure they keep their character. Even the notes to guests about saving water and informative signs on the walls were charming and artsy.

The storm was shorter than the gloomy sky presaged. Few claps of thunder and a short rain. The weather in Maramures was unpredictable and fast-moving. I crawled out of my tent to admire the stunning location I was lucky to be in.

It was a peaceful oasis. One could wrap oneself in one of the hammocks hanging between the trees or sit in a comfy chair.

I sat down on one of the swings. The view stretched all the way to Ukraine. Although it was the end of the summer, a particularly dry one, there was a lot of juicy greenery around. The clouds parted, revealing the rugged silhouette of Creasta Cocoșului, the Rooster’s Comb, the most famous mountain in the area.

I took a stroll through the village, peeking into people’s backyards. The branches of the apple trees groaned under the weight of fruits. Chickens roamed around, unrestricted by fences, circulating between the beds of vegetables. Being self-sufficient is not a trendy slogan in Breb, but a norm people have been living for years.

The next day after my arrival was The Assumption of Mary, a religious holiday significant in this part of Romania. On the morning of August 15th, I followed the residents of Breb heading toward the Greek-Orthodox church of Holy Archangels.

Under umbrellas, they protected their festive clothes from getting wet by the summer rain. A carriage passed me by, pulled by two horses with red pompons dangling from their heads. A little crowd gathered around the wooden church. Young girls in vibrant skirts with a flower pattern, and the elderly ladies in black skirts. All had flowery scarves on their heads, tied under the chin. Most of the girls wore thick white socks and leather shoes while some decided to add a touch of modern fashion to their outfits and put on high heels. Surprisingly, they didn’t have problems walking in them on the potted dirt roads.

Straw huts, clop, that the men in Maramures wore, were too tiny to protect them from the sun or the cold but looked very charming. There was so much colour, and everyone looked so festive, yet so casual and natural. Unlike most places in Europe, in Breb people still wear their traditional outfits to church every Sunday.

After rendering to God the things that are God’s, people went back to the secular things. A big 3-day festival has started! Artisans and craftsmen from the region presented their beautiful meticulous works. Necklaces from minuscule beads, large paintings, organic cosmetics, and decorated clothes. A whole kaleidoscope of dazzling details was fighting for the attention of passers-by.

The sun made its way through the cloud cover right on time, when the visitors and residents of Breb began to take place on the haystacks in front of the stage. The valley filled in with strong voices, sprightly fiddle tunes and jaunty rhythm.

Young boys in white shirts whirled with their hands on girls’ waists. Their looks were both insecure and joyful. Young kids in the audience couldn’t resist the music. They jumped and spun in the rays of the afternoon sun.

The party was just starting but exhaustion kicked in. I was about to walk back to the campsite when the air filled with the sound of electric guitar and rock music. People weren’t seating on the haystacks anymore. Both tourists and locals embraced the warm summer evening. Everybody tried to seize the carefree moment. And since in Breb time slows down, this one untroubled evening would suffice for the whole summer.

Practical info

How to get to Breb?

By car

Travelling by car is the easiest way to get to Breb. Although the roads in the village are unpaved, you won’t need a 4×4 (although it will make your life easier if you plan to travel there in winter). Don’t underestimate the distances. The mountain roads in the area are narrow and bendy. For example, the 150 km from Cluj Napoca will take you almost 3 hours.

By bus

There are minibuses to Breb from Sighet and Baia Mare. The bus from Sighet goes twice a day on weekdays (you can check the timetable on this website). From Baia Mare, Breb is not an official stop, so you need to let the driver know that you’d like to get off there. The bus stops at the junction. From there you will need approximately 20 minutes to reach the village on foot.

Shops in Breb

There are two small shops in Breb that only offer basic products. It’s best to get your groceries on your way here, for example in Cavnic.

Where to stay in Breb?

Babou Maramures

The campsite and hostel Babou are like a peaceful oasis. The atmosphere reminded me of the vibe at the tourist bases in the polish mountains. People sitting at the campfire, with no music but the chirping birds. The price is 30 RON per person for camping + 20 RON for the camper or 15 RON for the tent. There are nice clean toilets and showers and wi-fi (closer to the reception). If you don’t wanna camp, you can stay in the hostel dorm for 65 RON. The hostel is small and cosy, located in a renovated barn. It has a kitchen and a common room.

If you want to experience a laid-back atmosphere and amazing views, Babou Maramures is definitely a place for you!

If you want a nice souvenir from Breb, you can get cute folklore-inspired postcards painted by the previous owner of Babou.

If hostels and campsites are not your cups of tea, there are plenty of guesthouses in Breb. This way you will have a chance to stay with the very hospitable and kind people of Maramures. Some guesthouses also offer food, made with fresh, home-grown ingredients.

Restaurants in Breb

In Breb 148, you can eat traditional Romanian food or burgers made from fresh ingredients (they even have a vegetarian burger on the menu – tasty!) You can sit in the garden and enjoy the green and peaceful surroundings.

If you are looking for authentic Romanian cuisine, visit Casa lu’ Dochia. They are serving a 3-course meal (vegetarian options available) for around 10-14 euros.

Best time to visit Breb

I recommend visiting Breb around holidays like Christmas, Easter or St. Mary’s Day on August 15th, or at least on a Sunday. It will allow you to see the beautiful festive clothes of Maramures and the amazing, old traditions that are still alive in Breb.

Hiking and mountain biking in Breb

The beautiful and untouched Gutai Mountains are perfect for hiking and mountain biking. The easiest way to plan your activities is to download the Eco Maramures App (available for Apple and Android). You will find maps with hiking and cycling routes as well as information about other activities and about the region.

One of the best hiking routes will lead you to Creasta Cocosului (rom. Roosters Comb). Unfortunately, I didn’t finish the hike because I felt unwell, so I will leave it to the experts: check out the Roamaniac blog for the hike description. If you plan to do more hikes in Romania, Janneke, the author of this blog, has written a great guidebook with 27 short treks and 10 day-hikes in the Romanian Carpathians.

A mountain bike is a way to explore the other Maramures villages and the endless green fields and pastures between them.

A nice route is a 27-kilometres-long loop through Mara, Deseşti, Hărniceşti, Şugatag, Mănăstirea and Hoteni. Brace yourself for a lot of hills and dirt roads. Download the Eco Maramures App for more details and the map of the trail.

Things to do in the area

Visit the wooden churches of Maramures

The wooden churches are a fascinating element of the cultural heritage in the Maramures region. Eight of almost a hundred Greek-Orthodox temples are on the UNESCO list. The oldest ones were erected in the 17th century.

You will be impressed by their lean bell towers, detailed carvings in the wood and amazing icons and frescos.

From Breb, the closest one is the St. Nicholas church in Budesti, just 5 kilometres away. Another one is the Barsana monastery complex, located in a peaceful place in the mountains.

Take a bath in the salt lakes of Ocna Șugatag

Only 8 kilometres from Breb, you will find a traditional health resort Ocna Șugatag. If your muscles need to loosen up after hiking in the mountains, take a dip in one of 8 salt lakes (two of them belong to the saltiest in Europe).

Visit Sighetu Marmației and The Memorial of the Victims of Communism

Located in an ex-prison, The Memorial of the Victims of Communism is a must-visit for everyone with an interest in Romania’s modern history. Almost 200 political prisoners (influential Romanian intellectuals and politicians) served their sentence there.

The exposition covers vast topics of communism in Romania, like the repressions of culture, church and ethnic minorities, the opposition and the daily life of the inmates. Unfortunately, the exposition is only in Romanian. By the entrance, you’ll receive an informative pamphlet in English (available in other languages too).

The Merry Cemetery in Sapanta

The incredibly colourful and cheerful necropolis in Sapanta attracts thousands of tourists every year. The entry fee is 5 lei. Since this is one of the most famous places in Romania, it tends to be crowded in the high season so better to come in the early morning.